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iphone and ipad connection issue.

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BlueGoldAce

Occasional Visitor
Hello everyone,

I have internet service through AT&T uverse. The 2wire router suppled is horrible, so I hooked my asus rt-n56u into the back of the 2 wire and suedo-bridged the devices (dmz, etc) so that the asus serves as my wireless router.

The results were/are great. I no have a consistent wireless signal (2.4 & 5), and I get the speeds over the wireless that I am paying for.

That being said my rt-n56u is running the firmware 1.0.1.8j and I wanted to update the router to the newer version; 3.0.0.4.318. Before I did this I saved my settings. I then uploaded the firmware, and reset the router to factor defaults following the upgrade, as instructed by asus. Everything when fine....expect my iphone 5 and ipad 3 cannot get on the internet. They can connect to either the 2.4 or 5 ghz channel, but I cannot send or receive data with these devices. My macbook and old dell computer have no problem sending and receiving data with the new firmware. The router will even list the iphone and ipad as connected clients.

I am not aware of any setting that were in place to prevent these devices from working with the router. I even reset the network setting on the i5 and ipad.

The only way I was able to fix this was to downgrade the firm ware back to 1.0.1.8j AND restore my previous setting that I had saved before I began this whole thing.

Any ideas what is causing this? I did notice that my 5 ghz signal was crap all night last night, after fixing the problem...but when I woke up this morning it was working fine again.

Any help would be great. Should I replace the router? Is it the firmware, or is it some random setting I am not aware of?

Thanks, I really appreciate the help.

-Blue
 
The only version of 3.x that was stable that I found was .206 until .321 was put out here for us to test.

Ive been using .321 since release and have had no issue with Ipad, Ipod, Nexus 7, DLink Webcam.

You may just need to turn of IGMP snooping OFF under Wifi>Professional. I have to do this to allow Airprint to work for my IPAD and printer.

There is a .334 but Im in no rush to jump up until people say its working better than .321.

Get .321 here



Get .344 update from here.
http://ca.asus.com/en/Networks/Wireless_Routers/RTN56U/#download


I know when I upgrade from 1.x to 3.x I have to powercycle the router in order to log in.
 
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I just updated mine from 1.0.1.4 to the beta .321 fw.

My iphone 5 was terrible before. It seems great now. My iphone is also updated to the latest ios 6.0.2
 
Thank you. I will try out .321 once I get my MacBook fixed. Hard drive failure 3 months out of the 1 year warranty. Go figure.

Time for a solid state, if I can find an affordable one.
 
Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated.

I can't figure out the problem. Again, my iOS devices cannot connect to the wireless signal being broadcasted by the rt-n56u.

I even bought a brand new rt-n56u and updated the firmware, as I did on my "old" rt-n56u.I have tried the newest firmware, as well as the .321. The thing is, once I update the firmware, no matter what I do my iOS devices can't connect. I can even downgrade the firmware back to what it came with, and the problem persists. This is apparent on both routers.

I have tried reseting the both iOS devices to a factory state.

The ONLY way to fix this is to upload and restore previous saved settings.

Is there some kind of settings that is enabled in the new firmware that persists and prevents my mobile devices from connecting?

Thanks,

-Blue
 
Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated.

I can't figure out the problem. Again, my iOS devices cannot connect to the wireless signal being broadcasted by the rt-n56u.

I even bought a brand new rt-n56u and updated the firmware, as I did on my "old" rt-n56u.I have tried the newest firmware, as well as the .321. The thing is, once I update the firmware, no matter what I do my iOS devices can't connect. I can even downgrade the firmware back to what it came with, and the problem persists. This is apparent on both routers.

I have tried reseting the both iOS devices to a factory state.

The ONLY way to fix this is to upload and restore previous saved settings.

Is there some kind of settings that is enabled in the new firmware that persists and prevents my mobile devices from connecting?

Thanks,

-Blue

Have you updated to iOS 6.1 yet? My iPad 3 hasn't had any problems connecting with my rt-n56u, aside from not wanting to use IPv6 at the moment *smile*. But it still connects, as does my wife's iPhone 4.

The most stable Asus firmware for this router has been firmware versions .206 and .334 (new). At least for me.
 
The problem was present in ios 6.0 and is present in 6.1.

Okay, if you've tried .206 and/or .334 firmware, I'd have to ask you what your wireless settings are...there must be something there. Since you've tried 2 different routers, that suggests something in your settings.

As I said, both our iPhone 4 and iPad 3 connect fine to my router, no problem connecting and transferring data.
 
That's what I would assume, but the problem persist on both routers even after a factory restore. Is there any particular setting that could cause this?
 
That's what I would assume, but the problem persist on both routers even after a factory restore. Is there any particular setting that could cause this?

For 2.4GHz., I would be sure to pick 20MHz. channel width, and pick a channel that has least use in your area, don't go with "auto". Something like inSSIDer running on a laptop using wireless is good for that. I also assume that you're using WPA2/AES, but I'm having to assume a lot here since I don't know what your settings are. You seem to be implying that you didn't change your settings from factory defaults, and I've found that factory defaults are really lowest common denominator and may not work for your location or your hardware. Don't hide your SSID's either, that can be troublesome, although that isn't default, some people think that gives them more security. You get your security from WPA2/AES, not from hiding your SSID's, or MAC filtering, etc..

The above is just a smattering of what might help you, but without knowing more about what your actual settings are, helping is difficult.
 
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For 2.4GHz., I would be sure to pick 20MHz. channel width, and pick a channel that has least use in your area, don't go with "auto". Something like inSSIDer running on a laptop using wireless is good for that. I also assume that you're using WPA2/AES, but I'm having to assume a lot here since I don't know what your settings are. You seem to be implying that you didn't change your settings from factory defaults, and I've found that factory defaults are really lowest common denominator and may not work for your location or your hardware. Don't hide your SSID's either, that can be troublesome, although that isn't default, some people think that gives them more security. You get your security from WPA2/AES, not from hiding your SSID's, or MAC filtering, etc..

The above is just a smattering of what might help you, but without knowing more about what your actual settings are, helping is difficult.

I'm able to get it working on the new firmware with a restore of saved setting. The 5ghz range is weak right now, and I am thinking that may be fixable by a factory reset.... But the connection issue prevents that.

Soon, when I get time, I'll do a reset. I'll compare my current settings to the factory defaults. I'll also take your advice in consideration.

I'll post if that fixes the problem, or if it still remains. If I have to I'll post my settings on here.
 
I'm able to get it working on the new firmware with a restore of saved setting. The 5ghz range is weak right now, and I am thinking that may be fixable by a factory reset.... But the connection issue prevents that.

Soon, when I get time, I'll do a reset. I'll compare my current settings to the factory defaults. I'll also take your advice in consideration.

I'll post if that fixes the problem, or if it still remains. If I have to I'll post my settings on here.

The 5GHz. band doesn't have the range that the 2.4GHz. band does, higher frequencies are attenuated more by walls and objects in the signal path. So you should expect it not to be as strong further from the router compared to the 2.4GHz. signal. However, close to the router, within a few feet, the strengths of the signals should be comparable between 2.4GHz. and 5GHz.

Just in case you weren't aware of that. If you were, never mind *smile*.
 
I'm aware, but good point. The router, due to constraints, is near the floor behind in a wood tv stand. The signal degrades about 20-30 feet away, with 1-2 walls in between. Normal I assume?

I have tried moving the router out into the open, and haven't seen an effect on the signal strength.

The idea place for the router I can't use, since the router causes my subwoofer to go nuts.

I really do appreciate the help. I'm darn curious to what is causing the problem that is not present in the saved settings.
 
I'm aware, but good point. The router, due to constraints, is near the floor behind in a wood tv stand. The signal degrades about 20-30 feet away, with 1-2 walls in between. Normal I assume?

I have tried moving the router out into the open, and haven't seen an effect on the signal strength.

The idea place for the router I can't use, since the router causes my subwoofer to go nuts.

I really do appreciate the help. I'm darn curious to what is causing the problem that is not present in the saved settings.

Yes, this sounds like normal attenuation on 5GHz. for what you're describing. When I first got a dual-band router, I had planned to use 5GHz. wireless more than I have, for media streaming. However, I found that the normal attenuation of the 5GHz. signal made it unusable, while the 2.4GHz. wireless signal is fine where I need it. I could have used an AP to boost my 5GHz. signal where I need it, but decided to use MoCA instead, which works very well for my media streaming needs.

Good question about the saved settings. I guess I'd go through the screens and see what the displayed settings are and if there's anything there that you didn't set manually, but you've probably done that already yourself.

Anyways, glad that things are working again for you. It's a real pain to troubleshoot these things and find that one or two settings that's screwing things up, as you've found.
 

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