What's new

how to setup up Power line connectors in this situation

  • SNBForums Code of Conduct

    SNBForums is a community for everyone, no matter what their level of experience.

    Please be tolerant and patient of others, especially newcomers. We are all here to share and learn!

    The rules are simple: Be patient, be nice, be helpful or be gone!

haramo

New Around Here
Dear

I experience a long time connection problems( WIFI). Even those who lived before in this rented house, complained about bad WIFI.

I know many things can be the cause but I want to first try something out (see below)

-----------
current setup of network:

3 power line connectors without a buil in outlet are used.

modem/router in basement (from ISP, router functionality active, wifi disabled). Networkcable in lan port and goes to the 2nd floor in the house , the cable in hidden in the wall (I think in a tube with other cables maybe).

A power line connector is connected in the plug at 2nd floor and the internetcable that comes from the basement is plugged into it.


2 other power line connectors : one in the ground floor and one in the 1st floor.

at ground floor: a acces point (Cisco wap 200 wireless-G ACCESS point with power over ethernet and rangebooster, the power over ethernet is not used) is connected with the power line connector.

at first floor: a router (setup as bridge, Tplink tl-wr841nd) is connected to the other power line connector.

------------


what I want to do is to eliminate the cause, I think it's the cable that is hidden or because the first power line connector is at 2nd floor.

I heard that to long distance for a Power line connector is bad?
is this true?

and that only one lan port of modem/router in basement is used to handle the tp link and cisco, can that be a cause of fallouts?

At this moment it's impossible to drill in the house (rented), that's why I want to test out with other power line connectors.

I will get other power line connectors with build in outlet. I know the speed will be less fast then a PLC without outlet but if the fallouts stops, I'm happy.

Reason I have to get these with build in outlet is because lack of enough wall outlets in first floor. But I can borrow them to test so no cost at this moment.

-------
new setup:

I will use 4 PLC's

I want to use 2 lan ports on the ISPs modem/router in the basement, I hope I will have two wall outlets, or can I plug the second PLC in the build in outlet on the first PLC?

Then how can I setup the pair of PLC's? I want the plc on lan 1 only to communicate with plc on ground floor, and plc on lan2 only communicate with plc on firs floor. Is this possible?


If I cannot find a second wall outlet in the basement, then I will have to try it with only one lan port used. then I only need 3 PLC's with build in outlet.

Can someone confirm that using 1 lan port and letting the tplink and cisco communicate to this one port is not a problem?

Or maybe I have to disable the router functionality on the ISP modem/router and let the tp link do the work? because maybe the ISP MODEM/ROUTER cannot handle the traffic on one lan?

Please can someone help , as I get tired of this.
 
I want to use 2 lan ports on the ISPs modem/router in the basement, I hope I will have two wall outlets, or can I plug the second PLC in the build in outlet on the first PLC?

Then how can I setup the pair of PLC's? I want the plc on lan 1 only to communicate with plc on ground floor, and plc on lan2 only communicate with plc on firs floor. Is this possible?

I am not sure why you would need 2 PLCs at the router end. You are just pushing Ethernet across a power wire instead of using a CAT5e cable. I used 3 PLCs for a while with one being at my router end and the other 2 were at different ends of my house. I now only use a pair as I have wire at one end of my house. If you want to totally isolate LANs you can use VLANs across the PLCs. I currently run a guess VLAN, a music VLAN and management VLAN across my pair of PLCs now since I have divided my network. Make sure you use the wall plug and not some kind of extension cord.
 
All powerline adapters will share the same spectrum, even if you separate them into different networks by setting different security codes.

Multiple adapters plugged into the same router or switch will cause a broadcast storm and kill your network.
 
Why do you think adapters with pass through outlets will have lower throughput?
 
I am not sure why you would need 2 PLCs at the router end. You are just pushing Ethernet across a power wire instead of using a CAT5e cable. I used 3 PLCs for a while with one being at my router end and the other 2 were at different ends of my house. I now only use a pair as I have wire at one end of my house. If you want to totally isolate LANs you can use VLANs across the PLCs. I currently run a guess VLAN, a music VLAN and management VLAN across my pair of PLCs now since I have divided my network. Make sure you use the wall plug and not some kind of extension cord.


No need for isolating LANS. See my Question In third last text sentence ( copies here) , I just want to know if this can be the cause of fallouts.
So if it's ok to use one lan for this setup , then that's better of course :

-----
Can someone confirm that using 1 lan port and letting the tplink and cisco communicate to this one port is not a problem?
 
I
All powerline adapters will share the same spectrum, even if you separate them into different networks by setting different security codes.

Multiple adapters plugged into the same router or switch will cause a broadcast storm and kill your network.
All powerline adapters will share the same spectrum, even if you separate them into different networks by setting different security codes.

Multiple adapters plugged into the same router or switch will cause a broadcast storm and kill your network.

So if I understand you it would be worse if I connect two PLC's on router? Ok got it, so will connect only one, but can you answer this question:

Can someone confirm that using 1 lan port and letting the tplink and cisco communicate to this one port is not a problem?
 
Can someone confirm that using 1 lan port and letting the tplink and cisco communicate to this one port is not a problem?
I need a simple diagram of your network to be able to accurately answer.
 
If that is not true then the better :).
I picked it up long time ago somewhere on a forum or webpage ... Maybe I misunderstood.
You can't believe everything you read in forums. :)
I haven't run an exact A/B test. But manufacturers would be dumb to design a pass-through adapter with inferior performance.
 
I wonder if there's some sort of UL or CE spec. on transient filters for mains powered devices that might force the use of something that attenuates the power line IP RF signal? I doubt it.
 
I need a simple diagram of your network to be able to accurately answer.

Well, I will try to make a shot summary of above:

Old setup of devices:

BASEMENT:
modem/router in basement (from ISP, router functionality active, wifi disabled).

Networkcable in lan port of the ISp modem/router and goes to the SECOND FLOOR in the house , the cable in hidden in the wall (I think in a tube with other cables maybe).

PLC adapter plugged in wall outlet on SECOND FLOOR, the lan cable thaT that comes from the basement is connected to this PLC adapter.

GROUND floor: PLC adapter connected to a walloutlet in the living room. cisco ( Cisco wap 200 wireless-G ACCESS point with power over ethernet and rangebooster, the power over ethernet is not used) is connected to this PLC adapter. I forgot to say that the PLC is not connected directly to the walloutlet, not a good thing to do I know, but as said, lack of wall outlets, that why I want to test the PLC with build in outlet.


FIRST FLOOR:

In the bathroom: PLC adapter is plugged in wall outlet, the tp link (setup as bridge, Tplink tl-wr841nd) is connected to this PLC.

all devices (mac, laptops, smartphones, tablet, printer) receive an ipadres from the telenet modem/router after connecting to the tp link or cisco Acces point.

I know this is not a diagram, but I hope this will be clear for you.
 
So you have 4 levels, basement, ground floor, first floor, and second floor? If ground floor is above basement why not run CAT5e wire. You should be able to reach ground floor easily. Why not use a small switch at second floor? This whole thing sounds confusing. It sounds like it is strung out all over the place. A diagram would be better.
PS
I would not want equipment located in the bathroom as it would get wet when someone takes a shower.
 
Last edited:
in bathroom, because no free wall outlet available in office rooom, that is why I want to switch PLC's for PLC's with build in outlet. but PLC is far from the shower.
and like I said in my first message: at this moment not possible to drill holes etc, if nothing else helps, then we will ask the landlord to let us drill.

what is a small switch? ah, you mean I don't use PLC but a switch? then again we have to drill to get to the first floor. at this moment not an option.

And yes, 4 levels

See diagram (my first time so I hope it's clear)

http://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/image/8801597/L.png
 
Where is your breaker box located? I would assume not on the 4th level. You don't show any cable connections on the second level so I would add a wireless device running off the CAT5e. I would move the second floor PLC to the basement it will probably shorten the distance for the power wire. I would add a second wireless up high in the basement and see if you get good coverage running off on CAT5e. I would think you could run a CAT5e cable along a power wire coming out ground floor using a plug outlet but not through the plug box just go around and out the plug plate without drilling holes or maybe drill a hole in the plug plate which can be replaced when you leave. These things I would look at first before I added more PLCs. If you get a wire run to ground floor then you can move your wireless up one level.

Even if your PLC in the bathroom is located far from the shower the dampness is going to cause problems. I would try to get the PLC out of the bathroom.
 
Last edited:
in bathroom, because no free wall outlet available in office rooom

Depending on where you live, local electrical code may require a GFI outlet in the bathrooms, which can impact powerline networking...
 
When my Calif. home was built, it was (and still is?) legal to have one GFI and multiple outlets daisy-chained off of it.
Mine is in the garage near the breaker box. It daisy-chains via ROMEX runs to 3 bathrooms, kitchen near sink, and patio outlet.

Builder REALLY wanted to save a buck.
 
When my Calif. home was built, it was (and still is?) legal to have one GFI and multiple outlets daisy-chained off of it.
Mine is in the garage near the breaker box. It daisy-chains via ROMEX runs to 3 bathrooms, kitchen near sink, and patio outlet.

Builder REALLY wanted to save a buck.

Wow... as long as they work I guess...

My place was built in '78, and I've got discrete GFI sockets in the baths and kitchen, the patio outlet is actually a normal outlet - not sure if they were added on later or not...
 
When my Calif. home was built, it was (and still is?) legal to have one GFI and multiple outlets daisy-chained off of it.
Mine is in the garage near the breaker box. It daisy-chains via ROMEX runs to 3 bathrooms, kitchen near sink, and patio outlet.

Builder REALLY wanted to save a buck.

How do you keep from tripping a breaker? My mountain house had some common breakers in the kitchen and one bathroom. My daughter and granddaughter would trip breakers when they were up. They would plug in hair dryers, curling irons, etc and with almost anything plugged in the kitchen at the time would trip a breaker. I had an electrician split the bathroom off. He redid both the bathroom and the kitchen with separate GFIs. He added 5 separate breakers, all with GFIs plugs. One was an electric built-in heater I had added for my granddaughter because it is cold at 9000 feet at Christmas and she is only a little girl.
 
The outlets daisychained from the GFI don't have heavy loads. The kitchen toaster & refigerator use a non-GFI outlet on a wall opposite the sink. I guess that's legal.
The microwave is on its own breaker, by code. (I had that done during a kitchen remodel.)
I recall one time that the breaker blew... when guests were here and two hair dryers were going at once.

The only time the GFI tripped is when the patio outlet got slightly wet due to a big rain storm.
 

Similar threads

Latest threads

Sign Up For SNBForums Daily Digest

Get an update of what's new every day delivered to your mailbox. Sign up here!
Top