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Using a UPS for computer and NAS

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flowrider

Regular Contributor
I'm wondering how everyone configures their battery backup to work with both their computer and their NAS device. The APC backup that I'm looking at has a USB to go to either the NAS or the computer so that it knows it's working on battery and can shut itself down but how do you get the other device to shutdown before the power runs out?

Is it as simple as hooking up the APC USB to a USB hub and then hooking both the hub?
 
the NAS OS must support the UPS device. Hook it up and see if it does. In the past this is done via serial which doesnt require having to support every device because of a common protocol whereas USB normally requires drivers and such.

Very importantly make sure the combined wattage/amps of NAS and PC is supported by the UPS.
 
the NAS OS must support the UPS device. Hook it up and see if it does. In the past this is done via serial which doesnt require having to support every device because of a common protocol whereas USB normally requires drivers and such.

Very importantly make sure the combined wattage/amps of NAS and PC is supported by the UPS.

Correct, it'll depend primarily on the NAS. Otherwise, it depends. It SHOULD work, but it also very well may not work. Probably depends on the UPS as well.

Also one thing to keep in mind, if this is only for intermitent power outages lasting a minute or two/enough power to ensure that the computer and NAS can safely shut down to prevent data loss, just about any UPS that has sufficient wattage and VA rating will work.

If you need it for any kind of prolonged outage, you are going to need to look at the wattage/VA ratings as WELL as the Ah capacity of the battery(ies) inside the thing. Not all have decent charts, but the general rule of thumb is for every halving of power consumption, the run time triples with lead acid batteries (they don't like high discharge rates).

So if you the UPS has a runtime rating of 5 minutes at 200w, and you have a 100w load, you should be able to get roughly a 15 minute runtime at 100w. Roughly 45 minutes at 50w and roughly 2hrs 15 minutes at 25w. That said, once you start getting in to pretty low power consumptions, that rule doesn't entirely apply as the UPS itself uses a base amount of power for things like battery monitoring, simulated or true sine wave conversion, etc.

Its one thing I've been keeping in mind in right sizing my UPS. I have a generator, but its manual start and beyond that, I have to haul it out of my garage to plug it in (I REALLY need to move the genny hookup in to the garage and hook-up an exhaust pipe through the garage wall). That means if the power goes out in really bad weather, I am NOT setting up my generator. So I want to make sure I've got a few hours of power backup for my core network, as my main UPS supplies my server and both of my switches. Gives me around 75 minutes of runtime with my server at idle. Powering off my server it gives me around 3hrs and if I power it down to just my core switch it is around 6-8hrs of runtime. My router has roughly the same 6-8hrs of runtime on the mini UPS it is on as well. I need to get a UPS for my ONT though as stupidly Verizon has them setup so that cable and internet only get 10 minutes of power before leaving only phone up (which gives about 8hrs of battery backup...even though if the cable and internet portions were left on, you'd probably only increase power consumption enough to have 7-7 1/2hrs of runtime).

I figure I don't really need much more than 6-8hrs of runtime for that stuff. I don't need it on constantly in a power outage as at SOME point I'll be able to setup my generator and/or the power will be restored. I do want enough if it is a 2-3 day bad storm I can at least turn stuff on for an hour or two at a time.
 
Thanks everyone. I'm not too worried about run time as I just want the computer and especially the NAS to shutdown cleanly. My area has a lot of fluctuations in power which has caused my refrigerator's main board to fry as well.

My NAS is a Synology and it's UPS supported and I run a Mac and I know it's supported. So... I should be able to hook it all up to a USB hub correct?:)
 
Thanks for the link. I did see that one before but it seems to have issues with working consistently. It seems unnecessarily complicated, at least by their write up in that thread and was hoping for a simple solution.
 
Unfortunately I feel you big time on the power fluctations. My old townhouse we lost power three times in five years with the longest being for about an hour. I never noticed any fluctuations. My current house in the two years I've been here, we've lost power for >1 minute three times. Once for 5 minutes, once for 15 minutes and once for 40hrs (major ice storm on the later). HOWEVER, in the same 2 years, we've lost power long enough to at least reset the clocks on appliances and cause machines to reboot/power-off at least 40-50 times (I have ALL of them set to "off on power restored", I don't need constant fluctuations to cause my machines to try to boot themselves half a dozen times in a few second span). Anything remotely like high winds around here and I'll get 1-5s power dropouts.

Its a large part of the reason I am also looking at a UPS for my entertainment center. It is annoying as heck if you are watching a movie/TV or what not and have the power drop out for a second, and then have to wait the 2-3 minutes for the DVR to reboot, or even the 30s for the AppleTV or Xbox1 or whatever to restart...then back in to what you were doing. Especially if it happens 2-3 times in a half an hour span.
 
There are tweaks you can use to get a UPS cheaply and still get the watt hours you need. This involves modification and car batteries. Just make sure the batteries you use have the right volt ratings and you can than daisy chain them for more amps to last longer. Just make sure to get a UPS with the right protection. Whenever a UPS fails its usually the battery. This modification requires a case incase of acid spill and a ventilated room.

The other solution would be to use renewable energy like wind or solar aside from the main power grid.

Once you've set up a UPS you may want to configure your electronics for power saving.
 
Thanks everyone.

I was going to go and purchase a new UPS today but got an older one from my in-laws that needed a new battery. So I picked up a replacement battery on eBay for $18, found the APC data port cable in a miscellaneous bag of stuff in a drawer and an old USB 2.0 hub. Now I just need to source out (locally) a USB male to male A cable. I'll test it all to see if it works and report back.
 
I wish I had a network power failure alert message so the PCs and NAS can all gracefully shut down.

I know there are $$$ commercial solutions. Not for me a home user.

I've read about NUT OS and DIY packets on the LAN and hacks and kludges which am skilled enough to do but these look like far too much time to be invested.

I wish there were a black box. Plug AC power into it. On power failure, it sends the semi-standard USB messages out several USB ports leading to the NAS and PCs.

Better yet, the box connects also to Ethernet and you get a "service" app ready to use for windows and Mac, maybe Linux too, to react to the packet.

Plug and play.
 
One thing you could do is reuse an old router and run dd-wrt or openwrt and see if they have UPS support and usb ports. You can than have it send messages to shut down.

But if you modify UPS with more batteries you could use it as backup power and leave everything on.
 
serial to usb converter would let you use any UPS that has a serial port. RouterOS does support UPS but ive never really managed to test it. If routerOS supports it than wrt variants would and some NAS. Dont rely on PC based software for this, look through the packages/modules of the NAS/router and have SSH on your NAS and PC so that your router can tell them to shut down using a script.
 
Well this is what I'm trying to do Steve. I know the Mac supports APC UPS's out of the box and so does the Synology. I'm just trying to figure out if both can be connected at the same time using a USB hub. If it works I don't think you can get more "out of the box" than that.
 
One thing you could do is reuse an old router and run dd-wrt or openwrt and see if they have UPS support and usb ports. You can than have it send messages to shut down.

But if you modify UPS with more batteries you could use it as backup power and leave everything on.

This is actually a horrible idea for several reasons.

First of all, car batteries are not deep cycle. If you actually run the UPS for anything other than brief loads, you'll destroy the battery cells in quick order (a LOT faster than the typical deep cycle batteries that UPS are designed with). A 100 minute reserve car battery is likely to run you $80 new, which works out to around 50-100Ah depending on how the deep cycle battery manufacturer rates theirs (its 32Ah, but car batteries use a 20A discharge rate, which is a LOT higher than deep cycle battery manufacturers measure their Ah capacity). A 65Ah battery can be had for around $70 and will last significantly longer.

Second, modifying the UPS should be done with extreme care, not simply for the potential volt/amps running through the things, but the CHARGING circuitry is designed for the battery size they ship with, they are NOT designed to handle the charging draw that big batteries will have. In some cases this just means extremely slow charging (as a measure of Ah of restored capacity per hour, not overall time, which will be excruciating), in others it means you fry the charging circuitry because it doesn't have a proper current limiter, so it ends up dumping dozens of amps more power in to the huge batteries because of their much larger charging draw at the same voltage.

Replacing a UPS batteries with larger ones should only be done very, very, very catiously and with LOTS of research. If you upsized 25-50% you are generally extremely safe, doing something like adding in a 65Ah car battery when the thing shipped with a 6.5Ah deep cycle battery is an excellent way to destroy the UPS and/or start a fire.
 
I have used the NUT service with the pfsense router, which would send messages to the QNAP NAS devices. All worked well.

So one UPS could power three devices and all communicate well.
 
I have used the NUT service with the pfsense router, which would send messages to the QNAP NAS devices. All worked well.

So one UPS could power three devices and all communicate well.

I spent some time reading.. and came away lacking a coherent overall how-to.

My Synology NAS can connect by USB to the UPS (Cyberpower 1500VA). And the Synology says it can send on the LAN a power failure alert packet. But nowhere I've found is that packet's content defined (proprietary or NUT or standards based). Nor software that would react to it.

Looks like there are no de facto standards for networked UPS, or ones in the affordable category.

Synology UPS
Windows 7 and windows XP computers.
 
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As long as we are wishing and dreaming how about a smart application that can shut down devices attached to the UPS on a priority basis. Turn off devices deemed less important (load shedding ) sooner than devices that you want to keep running almost to the bitter end.
 
As long as we are wishing and dreaming how about a smart application that can shut down devices attached to the UPS on a priority basis. Turn off devices deemed less important (load shedding ) sooner than devices that you want to keep running almost to the bitter end.

First, I'd like the basics!
 

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