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Yes, Routers do die

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I imagine you have lots "handy"; from your previous comment about using the netgear because it was popular, I thought you might have chosen an Asus.
No significant discoveries not found at review time?
 
I don't have the RT-N66U on hand. It was given away in a contest.

I have yet to find a router that doesn't meet my needs, which are very simple, i.e. share an internet connection.
 
Yes, in the cold light of day, almost all widely-available routers will meet the requirements of most, I guess a lots of it comes down to favoured colour of LEDs... :)
 
it's funny, when Netgear first changed their design to the upright monolith - I don't remember model numbers, I started deploying them at customer sites all over the place. Every system I set up uses APC SmartUPS's of some size (usually 1KVA +) for protection (AVR, etc) and longer runtime than the regular UPS's. After about a year, everytime someone would call and say their network was 'down' I would bring a spare power brick with me - I don't think one original wall wart is still in use on any of that generation I deployed, but the rest of the routers continue to function. It is lame that someone might build a decent device and then source an $8 power supply that renders it useless.

Due to the number of times I was burned by that first generation of 'upright monoliths', I now avoid netgear products even thought they surely have resolved that particular issue.

I have had better than average luck with Linksys - and awesome luck with Cisco and Motorola commercial equipment. I have Cisco 350 series equipment that has been deployed for probably close to 10 years with very few failures. Hell, I have Aironet equiment that should have been retired long ago still working at some locations. So the stuff can be made to last. Old Proxim stuff is still going Orinoco, etc...

Most of the routers and access points I have pulled out of service have been due to increased requirements and not equipment failure.

I am just trying out the Asus stuff right now for the first time and compared to the Linksys E4200V2 that I have been using, the asus AC is definitely more fun to play with. Not as stable as the E4200V2, but performance is better and the lack of stability may be due to me playing with the extra features that I don't need. It seems to generate a lot more heat, or maybe the heatsinking is better and the heat is actually being removed from the components.
 
Most of the proper commercial users of WiFi don't use the consumer products, in my experience. I don't mean huge enterprise users. IMO, the tiny profit margins in consumer WiFi products lead Netgear, D-Link, and in later years, Linksys, to cut too many corners to get another $2 off their shelf prices.

In the commercial user worlds I've been involved with (excluding thin-AP/managed-AP and metro-mesh), we find other brands. Many are just 20% or so more than retail products.
 
ESR600H same as the ESR750H in CPU and RAM but so call speed is 300 + 300 not 300 + 450 like in ESR750H. Either way ESR600H running well on the WiFi end only as I do not use it as the main Router which falls into Wired Router ER6120. But both Wired Router and Wireless Router in Non-DHCP, with AP mode only Active works 100%.

All the Cisco Linksys WiFi from E series to EA series has failed me within 6 months. They just don't build them like they use too. Belkin N+ was better but again after 1 of heavy usage is goes duff (bad). Netgear ones never will I venture back to those. TP-LINK makes better Wired gear, WiFi side needs more attention, even with 4x of their Ultra 300 series still failed. They said a SMB WiFi AP was coming out soon but just have to see. EnGenius ESR600H hasn't let me down at all.

Wii (1x)
Blue-Ray Players (2x)
Network Media Players (7x)
Smartphones (10x)
Tablets (45x)
Netbooks (2x)
Laptops (2x)
Desktops (5x) 2012 newer desktops now have built-in WiFi out of the box..

ESR600H handles all WiFi clients here without issue, plus no over heating issues at all.

Very Strong Signal - Excellent
Signal Quality - Excellent
Performance - Excellent
 
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Heat is the biggest issue. And people putting them in places where convection currents can't form and carry away the heat don't help.

Many people put their router and modem behind the TV in the cabinet on top of the DVR and DVD player.
 
You can extend the life of a router significantly by being willing to fix them.

I recommend getting a good soldering iron and an additional cheap desoldering iron (the ones with the little bump attached to them)

After that, check to see if your multimeter can also act as an ESR meter (many will do both)

When the item refuses to start or work, desolder the capacitors and test them to make sure they are still good (not all caps bulge when they fail)

If you lack the proper testing equipment, then there is another thing you can do, (for small capacitors, you can heat the cap it's self up then bend them, this will cause the pins cap to come out, leaving the pins in place, you can then take a replacement cap, then hold it in place and see if the item boots. This method works if you are only dealing with 1 or 2 suspected bad caps.

(PS for devices with ample space for higher components, if you notice a poor design, eg a capacitor almost touching a heatsink, then you can solder on a female pin connector, then simply trim the leads to the same length on the replacement capacitors, then stick them in, this makes replacement easy when the cap fails (if the item will be moving, then add a little bit of hot glue to better secure it)

Most router failures are linked to passive components failing, (eg a bad diode, bad capacitor, or failed resistor)

PS if you know the nominal power usage of the router, you can run it inline with a multimeter to measure the power draw, then when it fails, compare the numbers, if you see a spike, then check the power rail and see if the resistance is just too low (indicating a short). If you get a short, then track it down and hope it is just a bad component and not short of a copper layer within a multi layer PCB, as those are difficult to fix, even if you can drill out the short without cutting any important thin traces, the loss of material in one of the layers can impact the integrity of the data and lead to an unstable device, even if it boots.


Edit: wanted to also add that some routers will overheat, eg I have tested a few from linksys and netgear, and it was not uncommon to see the thermal probe on my multimeter, reading 80+c with a ambient temperature of around 75f

If you want to keep temperatures under control, I highly recommend adding a heatsink once the router is out of warranty. you can buy cheap chipset heatsinks from sites like ebay, or salvage them from old broken computers. You can then attach them using thermal tape.
 
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You know I have been lucky and not seen any personal routers go bad. I had one of the original Linksys routers for several years when they first came out and then sold it. I then moved to a PIX501 for a couple of years. I then moved to a RVS4000 for a couple of years. I sold the version 1 to a friend and he is still using it. I then bought a couple of version 2 RVS4000 routers which I still have. I bought a RV180 when they were first out which I still play with. I then bought an ER-6120 which I have been using for a couple of months. I probable ran a couple of big Cisco routers for short periods when I had them in between all the previous routers. You know all the routers are still working. I have never had one die on me. They all ran 24/7 because I used to run a mail server up until about a year ago. Of course as YeOldeStonecat said if you run them on battery backup ( I have an APC1400 rack mount UPS) they will last forever. I guess maybe it is true.
 
You can extend the life of a router significantly by being willing to fix them.

I recommend getting a good soldering iron and an additional cheap desoldering iron (the ones with the little bump attached to them)

Your time must be "free"?

I'm currently seeing if I want to repair my washing machine. But that's worth an hour or two of my time to save spending $700+ at this time. But to repair a $50 to $100 router, not so much.
 
I mainly fix them in my spare time.

usually if the electronic device is more than $10 I will repair it. (done many cheap radios, powered speakers and other random items, it is fun to do and it saves you money)

If the SOC is still working then replacing passives is often easy and cheap, and you get to use higher quality components, eg instead of crappy 85C 1000 hour caps, you can throw in some 125c 2000 hour caps or even some 10,000 hour caps with lower ESR.

and if you are lucky to get custom firmware that actually unlocks overclocking, then you can add a nice heatsink while the unit is opened and not only enjoy your repaired router, but also enjoy it overclocked.

(fun back in the day with the WRT54GL, I eventually repaired it because it started to randomly reboot, replaced some aging caps and also used a higher quality power adapter)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/razor512/3248641940/in/photostream
 

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