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Recent content by dchang0

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  1. D

    Broken power button

    I don't have an RT-AC68U, otherwise I'd figure it out. From the photos, it looks like a common, easy-to-find tactile switch or pushbutton switch. So all you have to do is measure the dimensions in mm: a) x and y dimensions of the body b) x and y distances between the pins (looks like six pins...
  2. D

    Broken power button

    I took apart the old, failed switch. There is a thin copper wire bent in a sort of upside-down W shape. The shorter rear end of this swings back and forth in a little molded indentation in the tail end of the blue plastic actuator. The longer front end of this W goes up and over the top of the...
  3. D

    Broken power button

    6) New switch installed and working! I guess my advice is this: if you have the right tools (heat gun with small nozzle attachment and solder sucker), go for it. If not, then this repair will be too hard due to the large ground plane acting as an efficient heat sink. DO NOT use a soldering...
  4. D

    Broken power button

    5) Pin and housing holes with solder sucked out. You can see clear through them.
  5. D

    Broken power button

    4) Top of the PCB after the switch was removed. Also can't see any copper traces to or from pin 2. Pin 3 appears to go to one leg of the green electrolytic capacitor shown next to the power jack in this photo. The copper trace that does this is on the bottom of the board and is easily visible...
  6. D

    Broken power button

    3) Bottom of PCB after switch removal. Solder is still stuck in the holes. I took this mainly to show that there are no visible copper traces going to or from pin 2. (Pin 1 has the square pad. Pin 2 is the center pin.)
  7. D

    Broken power button

    2) Side view of new and old switches. The metal housing is clearly better on the genuine E-Switch. Even the blue plastic plunger is better formed--it has faceted corners while the old switch has sharp corners.
  8. D

    Broken power button

    Here are the photos. 1) New and old switches. Note that the bent metal pins that clamp the metal housing to the PCB are better formed on the new E-Switch. The old one could be a fake or could be a prior revision, but it looks like a fake to me. NOTE: the old switch has had its spring and...
  9. D

    Broken power button

    I've got good news. The E-Switch LC-1258-EE-NP switch is a perfect fit and functions correctly as a replacement power button in my RT-N66U (outside label is RT-N66R, but PCB says RT-N66U Rev. 3.20). A few notes: 1) The ground plane on the PCB makes desoldering the switch a real pain. I could...
  10. D

    Broken power button

    It might be a multilayer PCB (more than two layers). If so, then just looking might not be enough. When I desolder the old, broken switch, I can use a multimeter in continuity testing mode and try touching nearby solder pads to see if pin 1 does indeed go to something else. There's a capacitor...
  11. D

    Broken power button

    Yeah, this is my third failed power switch in three different routers. The first one was under warranty. I sent it to ASUS and got a replacement, which just failed today (the third failed router). I used the tape and dime approach on the second failed router but found it far too annoying to...
  12. D

    Broken power button

    Just a matter of personal preference. I like having a working power button. Most people won't care and will try some of the other solutions like hot glue, taping a dime over the button, removing the spring, soldering a jumper, etc. A few like me will care and want a working power button. It...
  13. D

    Broken power button

    Sorry for the necropost. For those of you who like me want to DIY replace the power button, it appears to be an E-Switch LC-1258-EE-NP latching SPDT pushbutton switch. Mouser carries them for 76 cents each, p/n 612-LC1258EENP I have yet to confirm 100% that it is the correct switch, but it...
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