Are all routers bad these days? (Help I need a new router!)

[pink_toaster]

Our old Asus (I'm not home, but I think it was a 68P or U) died.

We did some quick research and decided on an Asus AC3100 based on a lot of good reviews we found.

It mostly worked good. My printer kept disconnecting and was a pain to get it restarted. But otherwise it was OK (just OK) for 3 weeks. Then the 5G died. You could still see it but we couldn't connect anything to it.

So more researching (and this time we found that the 5G band dying was an issue). We almost rebought it, thinking it was a hardware issue but at the last minute bought the Netgear X6S instead. Again... it had a lot of good reviews (even found the nice review on this page today!)

Got it home last night and set it up... blazing speed (except for the Xbox One?)... EASY set up. The printer printed! WOOT!

Woke up this morning and none of the wired devices worked. Did a reset back to factory and they finally came back (however the solar one... even though it's showing production still says it's not connected??) But at least our cameras and HD homerun are back!

So now we're looking for a new router AGAIN!

It appears that Netgear has to be out because their FW stinks. So what to buy?

I really am trying to do my homework (I saw thiggins post that he wants us to do it!)

But I'm really at a loss! So... please mr. thiggins don't be mad at me: But what router should I buy!?

We have a bunch of devices connected but only two of us. I don't care about the Mimu stuff or whatever it's called. We need THREE hard wired ports. I want to stream while hubby's either playing Xbox or streaming separately. And we want our house covered from one end (computer room, to the other end garage/workout room). Router is located pretty much smack dab in the middle of the house and it's only 1200 sqft, one floor.

So can you'all help, please!? Pretty please!

 

[thiggins]

Did you do a DHCP release/renew or disconnect/connect on all wired devices?

What is the IP address of the router and what are the IP addresses of your devices? Are they in the same subnet, i.e. are the first three numbers the same?

If the router is, for example, 192.168.1.x and your devices are 192.168.0.x, they aren't going to connect.

 

[lmitche]

Our old Asus (I'm not home, but I think it was a 68P or U) died.

We did some quick research and decided on an Asus AC3100 based on a lot of good reviews we found.

It mostly worked good. My printer kept disconnecting and was a pain to get it restarted. But otherwise it was OK (just OK) for 3 weeks. Then the 5G died. You could still see it but we couldn't connect anything to it.

So more researching (and this time we found that the 5G band dying was an issue). We almost rebought it, thinking it was a hardware issue but at the last minute bought the Netgear X6S instead. Again... it had a lot of good reviews (even found the nice review on this page today!)

Got it home last night and set it up... blazing speed (except for the Xbox One?)... EASY set up. The printer printed! WOOT!

Woke up this morning and none of the wired devices worked. Did a reset back to factory and they finally came back (however the solar one... even though it's showing production still says it's not connected??) But at least our cameras and HD homerun are back!

So now we're looking for a new router AGAIN!

It appears that Netgear has to be out because their FW stinks. So what to buy?

I really am trying to do my homework (I saw thiggins post that he wants us to do it!)

But I'm really at a loss! So... please mr. thiggins don't be mad at me: But what router should I buy!?

We have a bunch of devices connected but only two of us. I don't care about the Mimu stuff or whatever it's called. We need THREE hard wired ports. I want to stream while hubby's either playing Xbox or streaming separately. And we want our house covered from one end (computer room, to the other end garage/workout room). Router is located pretty much smack dab in the middle of the house and it's only 1200 sqft, one floor.

So can you'all help, please!? Pretty please!

You might consider a wired router and individual WAPs. Ubiquiti and microTik are two brands to consider. They sell both router and WAP products. The firmware from the mainstream router companies is just awful and seems to get worse with time.

Setup will be difficult, but doable. Done properly the results will be fast, reliable and secure.

 

[pink_toaster]

Did you do a DHCP release/renew or disconnect/connect on all wired devices?

What is the IP address of the router and what are the IP addresses of your devices? Are they in the same subnet, i.e. are the first three numbers the same?

If the router is, for example, 192.168.1.x and your devices are 192.168.0.x, they aren't going to connect.

Hi! They are all 192.168.1.X

I didn't do a renew release. I just looked and can't find where to do it. We did disconnect all three of them before connecting them one at a time and making sure they worked at the time.

 

[pink_toaster]

You might consider a wired router and individual WAPs. Ubiquiti and microTik are two brands to consider. They sell both router and WAP products. The firmware from the mainstream router companies is just awful and seems to get worse with time.

Setup will be difficult, but doable. Done properly the results will be fast, reliable and secure.

That sounds way above my skill level! EEK!

 

[thiggins]

Hi! They are all 192.168.1.X

I didn't do a renew release. I just looked and can't find where to do it. We did disconnect all three of them before connecting them one at a time and making sure they worked at the time.

Your previous post said two of the three devices are working after a factory reset. So only one device is not working? Which one? Can you ping the router IP address from it?

If yes, can you ping an internet site, like Google?

 

[pink_toaster]

So some additional information:

Everything stayed connected all day after the reset we had done in the morning. However I started thinking that we had never done the hard reset on the original modem Asus RT-AC68P. (I thought the unplug/replug in was all that was needed at the time it started acting up so that was all we had done.)

So even though the netgear was still connected... we decided to hook the old 68 back up and give it a try with the hard reset. Everything connected and stayed connected throughout the evening (prior to "replacing" it, it would only stay connected a few minutes). HOWEVER, this morning the cameras/security system was not connected (required a restart of that). The HDHomerun was still connected. Solar is showing not connected on the website, but no red light on it's little module that's connected to the router. (Yesterday it showed the red line of not connected on the website all day, but it was updating our solar generation... so until the sun comes out I can't see if it's doing that again.)

So right now, it's two different brands having a similar issue (the Asus 3100 lost 5G, not wired and would NOT come back)

So I'm even at more of a loss of what to do. The 68P had worked fine up until a few weeks ago when we "replaced" it. But NONE of the newer versions get what I consider good reviews (even the 86U that is #5 on the router ranker on here has abysmal reviews on amazon!)

Can someone tell me where the DHCP release/renew is on the 68? I'll try that.

Could the router cause wired issues? We have an Arris SB6183.

 

[pink_toaster]

Your previous post said two of the three devices are working after a factory reset. So only one device is not working? Which one? Can you ping the router IP address from it?

If yes, can you ping an internet site, like Google?

Two of the three were working (so I thought) at the time I posted. The third device (the solar) was showing not connected to the internet BUT it was updating output. So it was, I guess, connected. Once we got home and opened that page, the red line of "not connected" went away. So all three wired devices did end up working and staying connected all day while we were at work with the Netgear router.

This morning that page for the solar (now with the old router) is showing that same message but with the old Asus 68P. (and that modules red light was not on, that is usually on when there is a connection issue.) The security cameras also disconnected sometime overnight. (They are still recording to the hard drive but we can't access them remotely to see what's going on if we have an alert.) The cameras are back after restarting their NVR.

 

[thiggins]

I'm getting lost with what's working and what isn't and what is wired and what if wireless.

Ignore the online reviews for now. They'll just confuse the issue.

The Arris is a cable modem. It provides your internet connection and gives you a single IP address. The two ASUS and one NETGEAR products are routers. They share your single IP with multiple devices.

Devices connect to the router and get IP address information from it. The IP address includes gateway and DNS information. Usually those are the IP address of the router (the IP address you use to log into its admin screens).

If the IP address of all three routers is the same, let's say 192.168.1.1, then when you swap routers, device IP address information should work. If the IP address is different, then all devices have to be updated to use the new gateway and DNS information.

All IP addresses must also be UNIQUE, or they will not work.

It's possible that with all the swapping of routers you've done, that all devices have not properly updated their IP addresses. If any devices have manually-assigned, i.e. "static" IP addresses, that could cause duplicate IP addresses.

Wi-Fi devices are usually pretty good (and fast) at updating their IP address information. Ethernet devices, not so much.

The most reliable way to get a device to grab new IP address information is to power cycle it.

In your case, I suggest you proceed step-by-step. First make sure none of your devices have static IPs by looking at their connection properties. If you don't know how to do this, search for the info.

Pick ONE router. SHUT OFF all client devices. Plug the router in and let it power up. Turn on ONE wired device and test that it connects. I also suggest checking the device IP address information to make sure it is unique and has the correct gateway and DNS information.

Add the next one and test it. Then add wireless devices one by one.

That's the most reliable way I can think of to ensure that each device will get its own, unique IP address.

 

[pink_toaster]

Sorry I tend to confuse my hubby a lot, too!

If our original router works, then we'll just keep using that one. Right now only the plugged in solar isn't working but I think that's the order we're plugging it in. We'll address that tonight.

We did plug in one at a time and test it when we put the original router back on last night. We'll try from a hard reset again tonight (and that should actually fix the solar too!

I'll let you'll know how we fare after the reset!

thanx for your help and patience!

 

[pink_toaster]

Actually, I do have one more question before we start with a whole brand new set up:

Would you recommend we attempt our new set up with the old Asus 68U? or the new netgear X6S?

OR.... would you recommend we try one altogether different? (in which case we would hold off on resetting the one that's currently hooked up until we ordered whatever one you recommended... It's prime day still so everything's on sale!

 

[thiggins]

Router wireless performance tends to be more alike then different between models with the same # of antennas (streams).

Tri-band routers don't really provide a performance benefit. You're paying for a second 5 GHz radio that your devices may not end up using. But you have it and it uses four antennas/streams. The RT-AC68U is an oldie but goodie, but is only a three-antenna/stream router.

I'd use the NETGEAR.

Again, I don't think the problem is in the router. I suspect you are getting an IP address conflict somewhere due to all the router swapping.

 

[pink_toaster]

Router wireless performance tends to be more alike then different between models with the same # of antennas (streams).

Tri-band routers don't really provide a performance benefit. You're paying for a second 5 GHz radio that your devices may not end up using. But you have it and it uses four antennas/streams. The RT-AC68U is an oldie but goodie, but is only a three-antenna/stream router.

I'd use the NETGEAR.

Again, I don't think the problem is in the router. I suspect you are getting an IP address conflict somewhere due to all the router swapping.

That's the one we'll set up then! I'll update if it goes good (or if it goes bad). The good news is, thanks to Prime Day I got to call and get a price adjustment on the X6S which brought it down to $189.99.

 

[pink_toaster]

OK... so just finished setting up the Netgear. All three wired devices are working. they have IP 3, 4 & 5 Then started adding back the 5G wireless devices. All working! All the 2.4 appear to be working. *fingers crossed* that it all stays good!

 

[pink_toaster]

ANNNND cameras not working now. still showing up as connected with .5 but the app won't show the cameras remotely.

Unplugged NVR, replugged and now it is renamed .108 and working. the other 2 wired devices are still working.

a.m. UPDATE: cameras still connected. solar connected (at least it appears it is... not red "not connected warning" and no red light on the module); HDHomerun was (and wasn't working). It wouldn't work on one AppleTV without removing the app and reinstalling it BUT it was working on my phone... so i'm still calling this an all working for now. (and calling the one TV an app fluke)

 

[thiggins]

Are you using one SSID for both bands and/or "Smart Connect" enabled?

Do you have both 5 GHz radios enabled?

If you have problems, POWER CYCLE devices. Don't just unplug and replug.j

 

[pink_toaster]

Don't have Smart Connect see up (read there is issues with that) 3 separate names. 2.4 devices connected to 2.4, apple TVs, iPhones, iPads, computers 5G 1, Xbox 5G 2

I thought unplugging (the electricity) was power cycling? If not... not sure what you mean.

5Ghz enabled. The devices I'm having issues with are the plugged in ones.

 

[thiggins]

I thought unplugging (the electricity) was power cycling? If not... not sure what you mean.

It is. I thought you meant the network connection. Sorry.

If /when a device disconnects, before you power cycle it, check its IP address to make sure it is valid. Also try to ping the router IP address. If that works, try to ping Google.

 

[pink_toaster]

Well I didn't have to look and check any IP addresses prior to any reset last night or this morning because everything has been working nicely! WOOT! *knock on wood*

Let's hope this trend continues!!!

 

[pink_toaster]

So not all great in out little network world.

Thursday evening when hubby was playing Xbox, he got knocked out with a no network (wireless 5Gh). It came back almost immediately according to him. However it knocked out our wired cameras, so he unplugged (power) and replugged it in. I was already in bed, so didn't get to see if IP was good, showing.

Yesterday afternoon, my computer (5Gh) disconnected. When I looked, it did not show connected. (It has been doing this for a while even with the old router. To fix it I have to turn wifi off, then back on and I'm good. That's what I did yesterday.)

Last night, hubby noticed that the solar module was flashing red (means not connected.) I didn't get a chance to check because he unplugged and plugged it back in.

So we are still having issues.

I did find a page on Lorex's site about setting up a static IP for the cameras. Wondering if that's what I need to do so that if there is a break in internet/power outage/whatever... that it has a static IP to come back to? I'm just not really sure how to do this? And I don't know what it means to be configured outside of the DHCP pool

from the lore site:

Setting a fixed or static IP on the router tells the router to reserve an IP address to a particular device. The fixed IP number is saved onto the router, and remains saved even if the router is powered off. Likewise, a fixed IP address must also be specified in your DVR so that even if your DVR turns off, the IP address of the DVR remains the same. The fixed IP address must be assigned in the router and DVR. The end result is that you can power on and off the router and DVR, and the router will always assign the same IP address to the DVR.

• A static IP address must be configured on your router to be outside of the DHCP pool. Refer to your router user manual for details.
• A static IP address must be configured on your DVR / NVR Networking menu. Refer to your user manual for details. Click here for downloads and documentation for your product
• Setting a static IP address ensures that this same IP will be used to identify your DVR / NVR as long as the setting is in place.