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Best way to connect starlink from barn to main house since starlink has best access from there

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ender85

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I am trying to do the opposite of what most network setups have. My Starlink dish and router are in the barn, since that was the best location with access to the sky and electric. I want to now bridge it to the house where all the devices are, computers, TV's, printers, phones etc.. Can this be done with decent performance? Can equipment in the barn take extreme temperatures and humidity? Perhaps a point to point wireless bridge, but what else for best performance? Barn is 100ft from house. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

- Andrew
 
If you can run an ethernet cable, that would absolutely beat any available wireless solution for both throughput and reliability. You'll want top-dollar cable (Cat 6A, I think, outdoor rated) but the price of the wire is not really a factor compared to the installation labor. 100ft is no problem --- ethernet is typically spec'ed to go 100 meters at full speed for whatever cable category you buy.
 
I run a MoCA setup about 125' with no loss of speed and the latency is extremely low. I'd think that coax is better suited to outdoor install than CAT 5/6 and likely costs less. I know coax is outdoor rated I've had 75' outside my house for 5+ years with the MoCA run.
As for the Starlink equipment itself, as long as it isn't tight in the rafters, it ought to be fine. I saw a few outdoors in the southwest during a recent trip. There was an issue with overheating early on, but that seems resolved now. I use 1Gb LAN connection, but they do have 2.5Gb LAN versions available. You shouldn't need those for your use case though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYDG7WN/?tag=snbforums-20
 
if the barn has it's own subpanel for electric, with an earthing point at the barn, you have to watch out for ground potential differences as this can destroy electronics and create a ground loop current flow. Two ways around this - fiber optic cable ( ethernet) or point to point wifi, usually 2.4GHz. , but since you are close, 5GHz may work .,band. It sounds like you are likely well away from other wifi, so interference is not likely an issue. You should be able to take wireless extenders sitting in a window at each or two weather rated external antennas under the eave of each building (look at Ubiquiti products) . If you roof mount, you will have to address lightning protection for the antenna per the NEC. and building insurance requirements.

If the barn electric is earthed back at the house, then you should be able to run an outdoor, direct burial, rated ethernet cable in a trench, preferably in poly conduit between the two buildings. Same for the MOCA coax mentioned above.
 
if the barn has it's own subpanel for electric, with an earthing point at the barn, you have to watch out for ground potential differences as this can destroy electronics and create a ground loop current flow. Two ways around this - fiber optic cable ( ethernet) or point to point wifi, usually 2.4GHz. , but since you are close, 5GHz may work .,band. It sounds like you are likely well away from other wifi, so interference is not likely an issue. You should be able to take wireless extenders sitting in a window at each or two weather rated external antennas under the eave of each building (look at Ubiquiti products) . If you roof mount, you will have to address lightning protection for the antenna per the NEC. and building insurance requirements.

If the barn electric is earthed back at the house, then you should be able to run an outdoor, direct burial, rated ethernet cable in a trench, preferably in poly conduit between the two buildings. Same for the MOCA coax mentioned above.
Thank you! The barn does have a subpanel, should all of my electrontics be connected to a battery backup to smooth out the power? Do I need a specific batter backup type for that?

Thank you again.
 
I run a MoCA setup about 125' with no loss of speed and the latency is extremely low. I'd think that coax is better suited to outdoor install than CAT 5/6 and likely costs less. I know coax is outdoor rated I've had 75' outside my house for 5+ years with the MoCA run.
As for the Starlink equipment itself, as long as it isn't tight in the rafters, it ought to be fine. I saw a few outdoors in the southwest during a recent trip. There was an issue with overheating early on, but that seems resolved now. I use 1Gb LAN connection, but they do have 2.5Gb LAN versions available. You shouldn't need those for your use case though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYDG7WN/?tag=snbforums-20
Thank you! I was unaware of this option. I like it!
 
Thank you! The barn does have a subpanel, should all of my electrontics be connected to a battery backup to smooth out the power? Do I need a specific batter backup type for that?

Thank you again.
Does the subpanel have a green insulated wire or bare wire to a copper rod in the ground ?

To answer your question - that is not the issue and will not solve a ground loop situation. It will help protect the device from noise and may reduce the impact to a point if it has zener diodes to limit reverse current flow from earth.
 
Thank you! I was unaware of this option. I like it!
Much lower cost and better performing option than antennas if you are in the working range of MoCA. You are a great candidate, close, no splitters to other cable equipment. A straight run of coax, piece of cake.
 
Use RG6 rated for direct burial and trench it about 12in+ deep in plastic conduit or cover with bricks to protect.
You can still have the ground loop issue, but it depends on soil conditions or presence of 3phase motors and such.. i had two buildings 40 ft apart with over 50V potential difference. Burned out a few modems until we figured it out and ran a piece of fiber.
 
Does the subpanel have a green insulated wire or bare wire to a copper rod in the ground ?

To answer your question - that is not the issue and will not solve a ground loop situation. It will help protect the device from noise and may reduce the impact to a point if it has zener diodes to limit reverse current flow from earth.
The subpanel has no ground wire. What does that tell us?
 
The subpanel has no ground wire. What does that tell us?

Might not be to code...

This might be time to get a pro involved - both for the low voltage work (from Starlink to the house) and an electrician to take a look at the panel.

As others have pointed out - there can be quite a bit of potential across circuits, enough that one can possibly get seriously injured.
 
Might not be to code...

This might be time to get a pro involved - both for the low voltage work (from Starlink to the house) and an electrician to take a look at the panel.

As others have pointed out - there can be quite a bit of potential across circuits, enough that one can possibly get seriously injured.
Does it make a difference if the electric panel is directly screwed onto a 3 inch steel conduit that is burried 24 inches under ground?
 
That would not be allowed per NEC code as an earthing method best i recall. If there is a green insulated wire in the conduit from the panel back to the house that connects back to the house earthing point, that might have met code at the time. Do get a qualified, licensed, electrician to look and tell you what needs to happen to meet current code. Most qualified electricians will follow the current NEC code as it is a matter of life safety and also insurance coverage for them and the property.
 

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