Hello dear forum community...

[sonavogel]

I am a newbie to this forum, so apologies for providing any unnecessary information or omitting anything important.

I learned about this forum through the NotebookReview forum, thanks to Phoenix, who spent a great deal of time helping me streamline my new MSI GS63 Stealth-061. When he realized that I would benefit from a router that would either connect to my Ubee modem/router (provided by Spectrum, model DDW36C, 300 Mbps download, supposedly) or replace the Ubee, he suggested I come here and ask for advice as to the best router for my particular situation.

First, I guess I’d better give you my situation. And sorry for such a long post!

My husband and I live in a 2-story log cabin, approx. 1,500 square feet (divided equally up and down); he works upstairs in a room one over from the Ubee, which sits on a shelf right by one of the walls that faces the outdoors. On the other side of the Ubee is our large wall-mounted TV. Our Spectrum account is for Internet only; we have a DirecTV account for TV. But I believe the Ubee is used for services other than TV broadcasts (Roku, perhaps, or streaming).

The Ubee supports 2.4GHz and 5GHz, but only our two Samsung J7 smartphones and my MSI Stealth (which has an Internet Wireless AC 8265 card) can take 5GHz. My husband’s Dell Latitude (and older one) and his Acer netbook—both situated in a room next to the Ubee, through a log wall and several yards away on a desk—can handle only 2.4GHz.

I work in the basement. I have an HP Pavilion desktop (not a new one) and a Dell Inspiron 15R (also not new) in different areas of the basement; neither can pick up 5 GHz, only 2.4GHz. The Ubee is on the floor above, and a combination of wooden subflooring, plywood, and concrete stands between my PCs and the Ubee.

My third PC is the new MSI Stealth, which can pick up 5GHz, but not reliably at the moment. It shows it's there, but the Ubee is too far away for the laptop to connect to it with any consistency.

What I would hope to find, in a router, is something that can connect directly to the Ubee via an ethernet cable, then search out those devices that use only 2.4GHz and those that use 5GHz--and provide separate channels, so there's no excessive traffic in the house. I would also need a router that can penetrate the wood, plywood, and concrete that leads to the downstairs, so that my MSI WiFi can connect seamlessly and without dropping the signal, and provide the highest Mbps download the Ubee "promises" (which, according to their manual, should be 300 Mbps).

I've undoubtedly left out some important aspects, but I don't know enough about routers to know to ask about them.

The other day I did a speed test just with the Ubee, to see what my download speeds were on the MSI Stealth, both wired and wireless. With 2.4GHz, wired, I got 118.39 download; wireless, 108.30. With 5GHz wired, I got 118.2 download; wireless, 118.51 download. Very little difference.

At this time--and without knowing enough about how routers work, especially the advanced options, etc.--I have been researching both the Nighthawk X4s and the Synology RT2600AC WiFi (AC 2600). Reviews favor each, with differences in firmware and tech support.

I would VERY much appreciate any suggestions or advice or feedback (esp. if anyone has a living space like mine).

Thank you!

Best, Sona

 

[avtella]

The X4S and RT2600AC both use the same CPU (Qualcomm IPQ8065) and WiFi chipset (Qualcomm QCA9984). Its probably the best Wifi chipset at the moment IMHO. The R7800 probaby has the best 5Ghz peformance of any router I've seen and the Synology is pretty close.
If VPN performance is important than the Asus 86U might be a better consideration, WiFi performance is close enough to these two.

Also I would not run 2.4Ghz on 40 Mhz, theoretical speeds are double but its also more susceptible to interference (ie microwaves and nearby APs) thus creating instability and reduced range. Sp leave 2.4Ghz on 20Mhz. If you want high speeds put such devices on 5Ghz which is much faster than 2.4Ghz, though range is less especially through multiple walls. I assume the reason you see little difference is because you have an "n" router not an "ac" unit which has much greater 5 Ghz speeds.

 

[sonavogel]

The X4S and RT2600AC both use the same CPU (Qualcomm IPQ8065) and WiFi chipset (QCA9984). Its probably the best Wifi chipset at the moment IMHO. The R7800 probaby has the best 5Ghz peformance of any router I've seen and the Synology is pretty close.
If VPN performance is important than the Asus 86U might be a better consideration, WiFi performance is close enough to these two.

Also I would not run 2.4Ghz on 40 Mhz, theoretical speeds are double but its also more susceptible to interference (ie microwaves and nearby APs) thus creating instability and reduced range. If you want high speeds put such devices on 5Ghz which is much faster than 2.4Ghz.

Thank you, @avtella--I appreciate your input!

VPN is not important to me for my home's setup, at least not as far as I know (we live on top of a mountain, with little WiFi traffic around us).

But if I may ask...when you say the R7800 has the best 5GHz performance, are you referring to its ability to penetrate ceilings and walls to give me that performance? Would I receive a stronger signal and faster speed downstairs for my MSI with the R7800 (vs. the Synology) connected via ethernet cable to our Ubee upstairs?

And one other question (sorry!): Does either router (or both) offer a kind of self-selection of appropriate channels? I mean, are these routers able to know which channel to select for our devices to avoid a bumper-to-bumper kind of traffic jam? Or is that something that I would have to select and maintain manually?

Thanks again!

Best, Sona

 

[sonavogel]

I assume the reason you see little difference is because you have an "n" router not an "ac" unit which has much greater 5 Ghz speeds.

Hi again!

I just actually took in this part of your quote...and I assume you are referring to the speed test I made.

The Ubee, which Spectrum refers to as a modem/router, is 802.11b/g/n/ac compliant, and we have no other router in the house. I'm getting my wireless signal (when I'm on my PCs) directly from the Ubee.

That's why I'm wondering whether I should connect one of these two routers (or another that is suggested here) directly to the Ubee--or use it to replace the Ubee. Perhaps my speed has more to do with bandwidth throttling from the Ubee, or the cable leading to it from the outside, or even from Spectrum headquarters...I do not know.

Thanks again, avtella.

 

[avtella]

For the R7800 I meant range/performance, the Synology is pretty close, pretty sure the differences are probably down to the internal layout but overall same hardware. You could pick either. The R7800 even outpeforms, by a sligh margin, the R9000 which also uses the same WiFi chipset.

What is your internet speed that you pay for? Plus it could be that the antennas on your Ubee aren't as good and may even be a 2x2 unit, granted your clients are 2x2 but the extra antennas still help. The routers like the R7800/RT2600 are 4x4 (transmit/receive) antenna units with larger antennas which can have a big impact.

As for WiFi channels auto is ok, but better to select 1,6 or 11 manually depending on which has the least APs on it. 1,6,11 do not overlap each other, and remember if you enable 40Mhz on 2.4 Ghz you pretty much take 2/3 of that channel bandwidth causing more interference with other APs. If you are in a rural area then its fine though.

 

[sonavogel]

This is very helpful to me--and it's also showing me how little I really know.

We have the Ubee DDW36C wireless gateway, and although I've just logged into our Spectrum account, under our Internet service it does not specify a particular bandwidth or guaranteed speed. But the Ubee manual (which I've also downloaded) indicates this:

• Supports 8 SSIDs per radio, 802.11b/g/n/ac compliant with link speeds up to AC1900 Wi-Fi (600 Mbps @ 2.4GHz + 1300 Mbps @ 5GHz), beam forming technology and high powered amplifiers to extend range, 3 Tx and 3 Rx antennas with dual-band concurrent, high power radios.

Now that I've noticed what I just boldfaced, I'm wondering whether the two routers I've been looking at may be too advanced for a Ubee that does not go past AC1900 WiFi--and whether that would mean it needs to be replaced by one of those two routers, or whether I would need to consider an AC1900 router whose reputation would recommend it as a connection via ethernet to the Ubee (particularly for my 5 GHz MSI downstairs).

In any event, we don't get anywhere close to 600 Mbps speeds (I assume they mean download speed), ever. Perhaps I need to learn more about how to configure the Ubee...?

 

[degrub]

your most reliable choice will be to run 1) an ethernet cable into the basement and set up a wireless AC access point or a repurposed wireless router; 2) use RG-6 cable run from upstairs to basement with MOCA 2 modems and a wireless AP as above.

You will have to experiment with different wireless APs upstairs to find which works well enough, if any, in your situation. Concrete and wood hold water so they block a good part of the wireless signal, particularly in the higher frequencies like 5GHz.

 

[avtella]

When they say stuff like 600 Mbps (200 Mbps per stream) on 2.4 Ghz that's theoretical assuming you have a 3x3 client you would still only get like 320-360 Mbps at best (ie Intel 6300n n adapter in some laptops), you will never get anywhere near that 600 Mbps mark. For 5Ghz at close range you may get ~75% of the advertised 1300 MBps (433 Mbps per stream) if you have a 3x3 client like a MacBook Pro, otherwise closer to 500-600 Mbps with 2x2 clients like those with the 8265ac. My home if mostly wood interior structure so even with the router on the top floor I can still get ~600Mbps one floor below, on my Dell Inspiron 7577 (Intel 9260ac 2x2) in the living room and still over 400 Mbps in the basement. However as the above poster said things like concrete, granite, chicken mesh would murder 5 Ghz even more so than 2.4 Ghz. Due to such things some people can barely get their WiFi through single floor let alone two like I can. If you are in the former situation, then a WiFi system might be better like Orbi, Velop, Google WiFi etc or better yet set up Access points connected via ethernet if possible.

 

[Klueless]

I've just logged into our Spectrum account, under our Internet service it does not specify a particular bandwidth or guaranteed speed.

I'm going to assume (until you tell me different) that your "speed tests" (of 118 Mbps) were Internet speed tests. They would be more meaningful if we knew what you were paying for. Your account didn't tell you per se but it might give you the advertised name of the service which you could then look up on their "purchase page". Worst case you could call and ask.

This is the speed they "promise" to deliver to your house. It is usually asymetrical with the download (delivery to your house) being faster than the upload (what you send up and out from your house).

Your wired speed tests would be your "gold standard" or your calibration set. (Wireless can be good but is subject to more variables such as distance, noise and other interference.)

Your Ubee (the "modem" part) speed of 300 Mbps is something else again. If your Internet subscription was 500 Mbps your Ubee wouldn't be able to keep up. If your Internet subscription rate is 100 Mbps then your Ubee is more than up to the task.

Similar with your Internet speed tests. If your Internet service subscription is for 500 Mbps then your wired speed test of 118 Mbps is showing that you are getting short changed somewhere. On the flip side if you're getting 118 Mbps over a 100 Mbps service then you are doing quite well.

For the purpose of conversation let's make a couple of assumptions

• Your Internet Service speed is 100 Mbps (down) by 10 Mbps (up).
• You only use your network to talk to the Internet (e.g., no PC to PC communications, no file server in your house, etc.)

That being said then your goal is to deliver 100 Mbps to anyplace in your house. Run your speed tests. If 5 GHz doesn't work try 2.4 GHz. If that works is that good enough or do you really want to spend money to make 5 GHz work? (In a nutshell 5 GHz is "faster" and 2.4 GHz is "further", in fact that's what I name my SSIDs.) What if you only get 75 Mbps? Is that good enough or do you really want to spend money to get the full 100?

Further testing will give you a better idea of what you need. If your tests show you've only one "iffy" device then you could simply run an Ethernet line to it (from your Ubee) rather than buying a whole second router. If you've only one weak area in the house you might be able to fix it with a simple wired access point (or, as mentioned elsewhere, a router configured as an access point).

Also you could load a WiFi analyzer onto a laptop or smart phone and measure both 2.4 and 5 GHz signals throughout your house and make some judgement calls based on those results. (And, if you're really having fun, you can think about loading software so that you can run speed tests between a wireless laptop to a wired PC to test the speed of your home network, e.g. a wired laptop to a wired PC should be about 8 or 900 Mbps.)

And ... as long as you're talking about routers I always give Asus a couple extra points for their real time traffic monitor. It can be very useful for planning or trouble shooting.

Good luck!

 

[sonavogel]

Good morning, @degrub, @avtella, and @Klueless!

I woke up to your amazingly detailed responses, which I will be printing out (I won't be able to fully understand your comments and suggestions without having something to mark up)--and I cannot thank you enough for all the information!

First, to @degrub, I wanted to say that while your suggestion would probably work beautifully, there is likely no way my husband will allow me to drill a hole through the upstairs maple floor, running the ethernet or RG6 cable through the subflooring, and then drill a second hole through the downstairs ceiling (which I believe is plywood buttressed by 2x4 planks or larger beams) to achieve my goal.

He's a reasonable man, but he has his limits--and I think that would be one of them, especially since I would not be able to guarantee the result in advance.

So I think I'll need to focus on the other options available (and even then wait till he's out of town to try them).

But I thank you for taking the time to offer the option! I appreciate it--and if for any other reason we have to drill through the upstairs floor through to the downstairs, I'll jump on the opportunity.

--------------------

As for the information and suggestions provided by you, @avtella, and you, @Klueless, I will need a bit of time to read, reread, check out, and digest the information.

In the meantime, I went back to Spectrum online and I believe that the plan we have ($49.99/month: $44.99 for the service and $5.00 for the Ubee) advertises itself as "offering speeds beginning at 100 Mbps."

So I'm going to assume that means I'll be unlikely to get more than that for my download speed, and even unlikely to get that.

The speed tests I did on the MSI were indeed Internet speed tests (via www.speedtest.net). What other types of speed tests are there?

I've just done a speed test (same kind) downstairs on my smartphone, which gives me the option to access either 2.4GHz or 5GHz WiFi.
As you suspected, the 2.4GHz result was faster than the 5GHz--indicating that 5GHz has more trouble handling walls, ceilings, wood, concrete, and so on. But neither one was really fast:

2.4GHz: 34 Mbps d/l; 11.3 Mbps u/l; 38 ms latency
5GHz: 20 Mbps d/l; 8.90 Mbps u/l; 55 ms latency

Later, I'll move around the basement and redo the speed tests to see if there's an area that 5GHz, in particular, comes through better than it just did. If I find a good spot, I'll take my MSI there and test it.

I may also talk with Spectrum later today to see if they offer an Internet plan that "guarantees" a faster speed, and how much more they charge for it (and whether they come out and change the Ubee).

None of our PCs need to "talk" to other PCs in the house (or to the phones, for that matter). So @Klueless, I'm not quite clear on the reason anyone would "run speed tests between a wireless laptop to a wired PC to test the speed of your home network, e.g. a wired laptop to a wired PC should be about 8 or 900 Mbps." I mean, it does sound like fun, but I'm not sure of its purpose. (A perfect indication of my ignorance.)

For now, that's as much as my head can handle, especially without coffee.

I will return when I've had a chance to absorb all your information...and again, I cannot thank you enough for offering your time to help.

Best, Sona

 

[Klueless]

<lol> Sorry to have added to the confusion ...

I may also talk with Spectrum later today to see if they offer an Internet plan that "guarantees" a faster speed

Sounds like you're paying for 100 Mbps and that they are delivering it to the house. You've confirmed it with wired speed tests and with wireless speed tests near the Ubee. They've done their job. What happens from there is on you (and us : -) They've no control over your beautiful house, fat walls, etc. Having them deliver "faster" to your house is just going to add to your frustration when your real issue is you're only getting 20 and 30 Mbps wireless to some areas of your house.

I'm not quite clear on the reason anyone would "run speed tests between a wireless laptop to a wired PC to test the speed of your home network

That was probably a superfluous (and unneeded) statement on my part. For some of us Internet speeds are a "variable". When my speeds drop my first question; is it them? Or me? There are several ways to determine. Your wired Internet speed test was one.

Running speed tests between my own devices is simply another way to skin the cat. I like it because it allows me to test my wireless at speeds greater than my Internet service. It was useful when I was upgrading my Internet service to predict if my wireless would handle the new speeds and it was useful when I upgraded my router to confirm that I had made the right mistake. It's also useful for optimizing placement of equipment.

BTW that Ubee is not a horrible device. A better wireless router will help (and save $5/mo.) but it will not work miracles.

Since your cabin is a new build you might look into power line adapters. They allow you to run genuine make-believe Ethernet through existing power lines. You could use it to install a wired access point in one of your hard to reach areas.

 

[sonavogel]

<lol> Sorry to have added to the confusion ...

Sounds like you're paying for 100 Mbps and that they are delivering it to the house. You've confirmed it with wired speed tests and with wireless speed tests near the Ubee. They've done their job. What happens from there is on you (and us : -) They've no control over your beautiful house, fat walls, etc. Having them deliver "faster" to your house is just going to add to your frustration when your real issue is you're only getting 20 and 30 Mbps wireless to some areas of your house...

Since your cabin is a new build you might look into power line adapters. They allow you to run genuine make-believe Ethernet through existing power lines. You could use it to install a wired access point in one of your hard to reach areas.

@Klueless, on the first sentence: You were only trying to help, and I know that.

On the two other paragraphs I've copied of your quote: So, assuming I'm satisfied with 100 Mbps, then what I need is a way to provide that speed for myself wherever I am in the cabin. The Ubee is doing its job and does not need to be replaced.

Options, then, to make that happen:

1. Attach (via an ethernet cable) a router like the Nighthawk or Synology directly to the Ubee and check to see if that is providing a sufficiently strong signal and the kind of speed my wired test showed to everywhere else in the cabin where we work with our PCs. If that doesn't do it by itself, purchase one or two APs--if I can find ones that will be compatible with either the Nighthawk or the Synology--that do not require a direct connection to the router but can be distributed at the locations where signal/speed is weakest...and see if that helps.

OR

2. Purchase a packet of two powerline adapters; connect one straight into an electric socket and connect it directly to the Ubee via an ethernet cable; bring the other to the area of the cabin's weakest link, plug it directly into a wall socket and directly, via an ethernet cable, into the PC (or PCs, if the powerline unit has two ethernet ports) I want to strengthen. (Is that last boldface correct?)

Does that sound like what you were trying to tell me?
To be on the safe side, would you have any recommendations for APs that would be compatible with the Nighthawk X43 or Synology RT2600AC; and would you have a recommendation for a good powerline adapter?

Again, thank you!

 

[degrub]

make sure you do not have arc fault breakers or whole house surge protection ( at the main panel with the breakers). Both will create significant issues for the Powerline bandwidth if it works at all. Try a pair with one having a wireless AP as part of the build (wireless extender) and an ethernet port.

If you get a second wireless AP/router, make sure you turn off wireless in the Ubee. Otherwise you will have interference if they are on the same floor or too close. At the very least, set them on widely spaced wireless channels (1 and 11 for example on 2.4) if you keep both active.

Get a long (100 ft maybe 50 ft) that will allow you to move the new AP/router around the house temporarily to find the best spot for coverage.

 

[sonavogel]

Get a long (100 ft maybe 50 ft) that will allow you to move the new AP/router around the house temporarily to find the best spot for coverage.

@degrub, I'll find out about the type of breakers we have; I'm pretty sure that each breaker handles a different aspect of the cabin and that they aren't connected to one another.

But mainly I wanted to ask you about the sentence I've quoted above. A word is missing, no? You suggest I get a long...what? ethernet cable? extension cord?

Thank you!

 

[degrub]

The breakers will be connected to each other on the supply side backplane in the panel. You cannot see it unless an electrician is working in the box. The backplane connection is what allows powerline to function across different circuit loops in the house. The issue is with arc fault breakers interfering with the high frequency signal that powerline technology places on the circuit wires.

basically, just order the adapters from a place that will allow you to return them for free even after installing them.

Yes, ethernet cable. Hopefully you have plenty of plugs on the walls.

 

[sonavogel]

The breakers will be connected to each other on the supply side backplane in the panel. You cannot see it unless an electrician is working in the box. The backplane connection is what allows powerline to function across different circuit loops in the house. The issue is with arc fault breakers interfering with the high frequency signal that powerline technology places on the circuit wires.

basically, just order the adapters from a place that will allow you to return them for free even after installing them.

Yes, ethernet cable. Hopefully you have plenty of plugs on the walls.

Thank you, @degrub, first for clarifying that you meant ethernet cable.

As for the potential issues with powerline adapters, esp. in connection with the main electric panel where our breakers are, and whether they're arc fault breakers (which cannot be determined without checking the supply side backplane in the panel), I think I'll leave the powerline adapter option for those who are more experienced with circuit loops, fault breakers, backplane connections, and so on.

I hadn't realized how complex using a powerline adapter would be--thought it was just a matter of plugging them in and wandering around to find the best places for them (along with having them be compatible with the Ubee or whatever).

So that brings me back to option #1, which will no doubt be complex enough.

Thank you--I mean, really thank you--for explaining all this to me!

 

[degrub]

don't misunderstand me, they are simple...just as you describe. Realize that there are situations where they will have issues. just make sure you can send them back.

 

[Klueless]

don't misunderstand me, they are simple...just as you describe. Realize that there are situations where they will have issues. just make sure you can send them back.

I'm liking degrub's advice and I'm thinking it offers your "best" chance of success at a reasonable price.

You also mentioned you have DirectTV ... as in satellite? That might imply you have a few TV (coax) cable runs in your house? If they're in the "right" locations that "could" imply that MOCA (genuine make-believe Ethernet through TV cables) is a possibility?

A couple problems with setting up a 2nd router;

• How far (how long an Ethernet cable) can you move the 2nd router from the main (Ubee) router before you hit a "grumpy" factor?
• If they're too close you're going to wind up "bridging" your Ubee modem/router (i.e., dumbing it down to be a modem). If that's the case then you might as well have Spectrum replace the modem/router with a modem and save $5/month.
  • Just a couple feet of Ethernet between the modem and the new router might allow you to slightly improve your router's location. (In my case it allowed me to get my router off of the floor, out from behind the TV/stand and three feet closer to the center of the house ... which helped ... and, more importantly, what my wife found to be cosmetically acceptable.)
• You currently get around 25 Mbps(?) in the basement(?) Will a better router improve performance in the basement? Probably. Will it be 100 Mbps? I'd bet on the power line first.

Speaking of power line;

• As you mentioned one would connect to a LAN port on your router
• The other end could connect to:
  • a wireless access point as degrub mentioned
  • the Ethernet port of your PC as you mentioned
  • or a multi-port Ethernet switch which would allow you to both directly connect PCs and set up a wireless access point.

Last Resort - a dual band wireless range extender. No cables. Properly configured it might do the job. "Properly configured" would mean one radio (2.4?) connects to the main router wirelessly and the other (5GHz?) radio connects to the clients (or vice-versa).

Netgear refers to it as "fastlane". I use a Netgear 6150 (not a recommendation, I just happen to have one and it works well). It's about the size of a pack of cigarettes (if anyone still remembers what cigarettes are) and simply plugs into a wall outlet. You would locate it about where your Internet speed tests start degrading and hope for the best.

Linksys has similar products with what they call "cross connect". If a client connects at 5 GHz it will automatically talk to the router at 2.4 (and vice-versa).

 

[Klueless]

I think I erred. When I first read about your two story house and then your HP in the cellar I was assuming the cellar to be a "3rd" level. Upon rereading I'm starting to think that two levels includes the cellar? If so then I'm now liking your idea of simply replacing the ISP provided router with a better router.

In any case looking forward to hearing about your success story : -)

 

[sonavogel]

Hi, degrub and Klueless!

I haven't reported in because I got swamped with work and couldn't return with any results or information. Apologies, because you have both been so forthcoming with expertise and ideas that interest me.

A few things, and then I will come back with more:

1. I spoke with my husband about the powerline adapter concept, and as soon as he received confirmation from me that the second (or third) unit would need to be wired to his device (a PC in our case) via an ethernet cable, he balked. He wants no wiring where he works (or at least no more than he already has: plugging into electric outlets for his PC, printer, scanner, etc.). And although he had no objection to my having wiring for my devices in the basement, that would defeat my purpose (well, one of them) of having him stop complaining about how slow his Internet connection is.

But there's one other problem with the powerline option: Since it would require an electric outlet of its own--I'm talking the main unit, the one that would be wired to the Ubee--we'd need an electrician to come and create an outlet just for it. The Ubee is connected to the TV for Roku and streaming use, so it cannot be moved away from where it is now; and the TV, DVD player, and one or two other devices I can't remember at the moment are all taking up the available two sockets in that area; they are connected to the TV.

And if my husband hates the idea of wiring in his work area, he for sure won't allow me to run a long ethernet cable from a powerline adapter to the Ubee thanks to having to work off of the next nearest available electric outlet three yards away! We'd have to have one created...and that ain't gonna happen.

@Klueless, I don't see your post here, but I received an e-mail of it--you are correct in your reassumption: the downstairs basement where I have my PCs and other work paraphernalia is the "second story." The main floor of the cabin and the basement: that's it.

At any rate, I'm back to considering which of the two routers--the Nighthawk X4s and the Synology RT2600AC WiFi (AC 2600)--might be best for our needs. Reviews vary on firmware and tech support quality for both of them, and I'm still wondering whether to replace the Ubee or to use whatever router I buy and attach it to the Ubee (I assume I'd have to disable the Ubee's wireless option in order to activate whatever I attach to it?).

Whatever I end up doing, it won't be till my husband goes away (July, I think) for a three-week visit to his daughter (my stepdaughter), in England. Then I can tear the place apart and create crises to my heart's content without him being there to have a heart attack.

Thank you, both. I will likely have a few questions as I study manuals (even for the Ubee) and read more reviews...and I'll post them here.

Wish me luck!

Best, Sona