MOCA 2.0 splitter, slow speeds?

[m3tpe]

So I'm trying to add MOCA adapters to my house.
What I did today was:

• Disconnected the comcast "LIVE" cable...
• Attached a POE filter on the live line..
• Attached that to the 2-way Moca Splitter
• Connect the 2 other ends with coaxial cable..

Note, I did not purchase the moca adapter yet.. just testing speed.
Testing speed in my room, modem to router to computer (hardwired). Pushed 900+mbps download.
Removed this setup, and took the modem to my Living Room to test the speed. The living room is only pulling 1-2mbps. I'm assuming this isn't normal. Will this cause issues when I install the MOCA device?

I'm not sure how the living room is split off because I can't find the splitter, and the lines are probably inside the drywall.

 

[Internet Man]

I may not fully understand your setup (how are you testing MoCA if you don't have MoCA adapters yet?) but if there is an unknown splitter in the system then it is probably not MoCA-ready and may be blocking MoCA frequencies.

 

[degrub]

is all of the coax RG6 or is there RG59 in the circuit ?
If this was originally analog cable TV coax, it was likely RG59 which will restrict bandwidth some. An old splitter will filter the higher frequencies needed for a bonded MOCA2 pair. Poor terminations will also cause issues. as will cable faults. Unlikely that the signal has run out of budget, but always possible if the losses are really high.

 

[m3tpe]

I may not fully understand your setup (how are you testing MoCA if you don't have MoCA adapters yet?) but if there is an unknown splitter in the system then it is probably not MoCA-ready and may be blocking MoCA frequencies.

Found one splitter laying in the crawl space in covered in dirt. Looks like it's already compromised because the splitter has already rusted out. Looks like I need to replace this one as well.

 

[m3tpe]

replaced the splitter. connected the MOCA, can't get a link connection.

 

[degrub]

did you replace it with another splitter or just a union/barrel connector ?
If you used a splitter, then you have to cap the unused ports with a 75 ohm termination cap. Otherwise, you can get all kinds of reflections or even shorting of the center conductor to the shield/case.

you should also "shrink wrap" the union with thermal tubing and a hot blow dryer or use electrician's vinyl tape to shield the metal from moisture and the earth. Tape will make a little mess, but it will help. You can also hang the cables from the joists to keep it out of the soil. Just don't crimp the coax.

Put a continuity tester on the cable end to verify you have a path.

 

[m3tpe]

did you replace it with another splitter or just a union/barrel connector ?
If you used a splitter, then you have to cap the unused ports with a 75 ohm termination cap. Otherwise, you can get all kinds of reflections or even shorting of the center conductor to the shield/case.

you should also "shrink wrap" the union with thermal tubing and a hot blow dryer or use electrician's vinyl tape to shield the metal from moisture and the earth. Tape will make a little mess, but it will help. You can also hang the cables from the joists to keep it out of the soil. Just don't crimp the coax.

Put a continuity tester on the cable end to verify you have a path.

I used another splitter. I didn't use a union/barrel connector.
I did not cap off the unused port because if I had a stable test, I would be running another line into that unused port. Do you think that would be the cause of not having a sync on Moca?

I just took off the modem from my room... disconnected everything and move the modem to my living room. Plugged the coaxial from the living room into the modem to see if I can get a active internet signal on the modem. I was able to get signal on the modem and hit a download of 940mbps. But when I connect everything back to my room and add MOCA to both rooms, I get no MOCA sync light.

 

[degrub]

The way the wiring is drawn splitter #3 is going to block moca2 frequencies all day long unless it is rated for it. You will have to find it and replace it.

Is the comcast modem box using docsis 3 or 3.1 ?
Is it using moca on the customer side ? Which version ?

Are the cables RG6 or RG59 ?

You should isolate each segment of coax, adding one segment at a time with unused splitter ports capped and moca modem attached to the head end and to the open downstream port, until you identify which splitter or cable is causing the sync to drop. May require an extension cord or a 50 ft piece of terminated RG6 for practicality.

 

[degrub]

I used another splitter. I didn't use a union/barrel connector.
I did not cap off the unused port because if I had a stable test, I would be running another line into that unused port. Do you think that would be the cause of not having a sync on Moca?

I just took off the modem from my room... disconnected everything and move the modem to my living room. Plugged the coaxial from the living room into the modem to see if I can get a active internet signal on the modem. I was able to get signal on the modem and hit a download of 940mbps. But when I connect everything back to my room and add MOCA to both rooms, I get no MOCA sync light.

Btw, those cable connector look awful. Since this was buried in the soil, there may be moisture in the coax which can play havoc with signals.

 

[degrub]

I used another splitter. I didn't use a union/barrel connector.
I did not cap off the unused port because if I had a stable test, I would be running another line into that unused port. Do you think that would be the cause of not having a sync on Moca?

I just took off the modem from my room... disconnected everything and move the modem to my living room. Plugged the coaxial from the living room into the modem to see if I can get a active internet signal on the modem. I was able to get signal on the modem and hit a download of 940mbps. But when I connect everything back to my room and add MOCA to both rooms, I get no MOCA sync light.

Yes, put a 75 ohm termination cap on to keep moisture out and avoid reflections.

 

[m3tpe]

The way the wiring is drawn splitter #3 is going to block moca2 frequencies all day long unless it is rated for it. You will have to find it and replace it.

Is the comcast modem box using docsis 3 or 3.1 ?
Is it using moca on the customer side ? Which version ?
.

Bought the caps to close off the unused port. I will receive them tonight. But shouldn't I get some sort of signal even if the port is open and not terminated? Afterall, I was able to achieve 940mbps in the living room with just the modem. Wasn't able to do this prior to replacing splitter #2.

Let's see if capping them actually helps me get an active sync light on the MOCA adapters.

Modem is Netgear CM1100 (bought from costco), it's Docsis 3.1. The modem does not have MOCA option built in. I'm using Motorola MOCA adapters at the modem and the Living room hoping for a active sync.

Accesing the wall at #3 is not an easy option. There's now a wall there, with a bath sink, and a bathroom with tile walls at the same side. I'm not even sure if the splitter is at the drywall section or the tile wall section..

 

[degrub]

Bought the caps to close off the unused port. I will receive them tonight. But shouldn't I get some sort of signal even if the port is open and not terminated? Afterall, I was able to achieve 940mbps in the living room with just the modem. Wasn't able to do this prior to replacing splitter #2.

Let's see if capping them actually helps me get an active sync light on the MOCA adapters.

Modem is Netgear CM1100 (bought from costco), it's Docsis 3.1. The modem does not have MOCA option built in. I'm using Motorola MOCA adapters at the modem and the Living room hoping for a active sync.

Accesing the wall at #3 is not an easy option. There's now a wall there, with a bath sink, and a bathroom with tile walls at the same side. I'm not even sure if the splitter is at the drywall section or the tile wall section..

Check some of the other MOCA threads here. There may be band overlap with the MOCA2 bands and DOCSIS 3.1 from what i recall. You might be able to force the adapters to use D HI band or perhaps D Low and eliminate conflicts.

regarding the mystery splitter #3 - sounds like it is time to drop a different new cable down a convenient wall then. Much easier than opening and patching a new bathroom wall and probably more PC.

Caps may or may not make the difference. Sound like there are other issues to solve as well.

The splitter manufacturer had a good basic discussion on how to implement moca and where to place blocks and cable topology.

 

[m3tpe]

Check some of the other MOCA threads here. There may be band overlap with the MOCA2 bands and DOCSIS 3.1 from what i recall. You might be able to force the adapters to use D HI band or perhaps D Low and eliminate conflicts.

regarding the mystery splitter #3 - sounds like it is time to drop a different new cable down a convenient wall then. Much easier than opening and patching a new bathroom wall and probably more PC.

Caps may or may not make the difference. Sound like there are other issues to solve as well.

The splitter manufacturer had a good basic discussion on how to implement moca and where to place blocks and cable topology.

Tried D-High band @ 1400mhz and 1600mhz on both moca devices. Still can't get a MOCA sync.
Received the cap, screwed it on the unused port, didn't help.. still unable to sync. i'm guessing it's the splitter inside the wall that is blocking the connection


splitter #3 is inside the wall. If I cut that line and drop a new line, then I would have trouble accessing the living room coaxial. That also means that if I cut #3, I would need to drop new lines to 2 other rooms. if the caps don't work, i'll just return the MOCA and live with wifi

 

[degrub]

Tried D-High band @ 1400mhz and 1600mhz on both moca devices. Still can't get a MOCA sync.
Received the cap, screwed it on the unused port, didn't help.. still unable to sync. i'm guessing it's the splitter inside the wall that is blocking the connection


splitter #3 is inside the wall. If I cut that line and drop a new line, then I would have trouble accessing the living room coaxial. That also means that if I cut #3, I would need to drop new lines to 2 other rooms. if the caps don't work, i'll just return the MOCA and live with wifi

Maybe you don’t have to cut. You could do an outside run from the attic to the crawl space if inside walls are not an option. Leave the existing cable in place for tv, etc. just make sure you meet NEC for earthing to mitigate a nearby lightning hit.
Otherwise, you might be able to get moca 1.1 or 1 working below 1 GHz. Check the frequency bands used.

 

[tannebil]

The cable modem does not use MoCA to connect to your provider so I'm not sure that your test is valid. The modem is sensitive to the signal strength from the street and the second splitter might well be knocking down the signal strength too much to get a solid connection especially since it is a 3-1.

The MoCA adapters are completely different tech than the inbound side of your modem. If you want to test MoCA, you need a pair of MoCA adapters. Wire it in the bedroom as shown in this link. If you have a problem getting a MoCA signal in the living room at that point, either the physical cable is an issue or there's another splitter on the path between the living room and the bedroom.

https://www.netgear.com/images/mcab1001_diagram18-4812.jpg

 

[degrub]

The cable modem does not use MoCA to connect to your provider so I'm not sure that your test is valid. The modem is sensitive to the signal strength from the street and the second splitter might well be knocking down the signal strength too much to get a solid connection especially since it is a 3-1.

The MoCA adapters are completely different tech than the inbound side of your modem. If you want to test MoCA, you need a pair of MoCA adapters. Wire it in the bedroom as shown in this link. If you have a problem getting a MoCA signal in the living room at that point, either the physical cable is an issue or there's another splitter on the path between the living room and the bedroom.

https://www.netgear.com/images/mcab1001_diagram18-4812.jpg

he is testing with a pair of Motorolas.

 

[m3tpe]

Confirmed that splitter #3 is causing the issue. i bypassed #3 by trying the get a sync from my room to splitter #1. The sync light was active. Guess I'll give up here since theres really no way to replace #3 inside the wall.

 

[krkaufman]

View attachment 18536

Connection from #4 to #2 has been cut by contractor.

Likely moot if the only goal is getting the Living Room connected and that effort is blocked by splitter #3’s hostility, but could splitter #4 be connected to the bedroom w/ the gateway, rather than via splitter #2? The diagram appears to show a stray coax cable hovering near the gateway bedroom.

 

[m3tpe]

Likely moot if the only goal is getting the Living Room connected and that effort is blocked by splitter #3’s hostility, but could splitter #4 be connected to the bedroom w/ the gateway, rather than via splitter #2? The diagram appears to show a stray coax cable hovering near the gateway bedroom.

#4 is in attic. Supposedly connected to #2. Line runs through from #2 to garage up to #4. But for some reason i found that line to be cut.

 

[krkaufman]

#4 is in attic. Supposedly connected to #2. Line runs through from #2 to garage up to #4. But for some reason i found that line to be cut.

Understood. I was just unclear on where the stray coax run from splitter #4 runs.