New house. Repurposing phone Cat5e. Looking for advise.

[ncfoster]

I recently moved into a new (to us) house that had pre-run CAT5e to most locations that I would want it, but it was used as phone wire. I would like to re-purpose this for gigabit Ethernet, as you've no doubt guessed.

My wiring comes to a location in the corner of my basement, right next to my circuit breaker (pictures attached). It was behind a sheet of loose insulation, along with the coaxial wiring for my cable. There are 8 Cat5e cables in place. The cable wiring in place is in use, except for the cut coax line and the one hooked up to an amp on one end. That seems to be old satellite wiring.

The phone block can be removed from the equation. The larger coax amp will need to be integrated into whatever I do. My existing gigabit switch should be rack-mountable (still trying to find everything from the move). I will also have a normal cable modem and an Edge-Router X to consider.

I have watched a couple of videos where people install a rack-mount patch panel, and this option appeals to me. I am really clueless when it comes to rack-mounts, so I am looking for some guidance on what to look for. If anyone can recommend what to get in terms of a rack-mount, power strip, patch panel and anything else needed, that would be great. I am price-conscious, but I don't want to cheap out on things that matter.

If you are able to help explain anything else that I might need to consider, that would be great. One thing I was thinking about was what surface the patch panel should be mounted on. Currently, the basement is unfinished, but it may be finished in the future.

I think that covers it. All input appreciated.

 

[sfx2000]

I recently moved into a new (to us) house that had pre-run CAT5e to most locations that I would want it, but it was used as phone wire. I would like to re-purpose this for gigabit Ethernet, as you've no doubt guessed.

My wiring comes to a location in the corner of my basement, right next to my circuit breaker (pictures attached). It was behind a sheet of loose insulation, along with the coaxial wiring for my cable. There are 8 Cat5e cables in place. The cable wiring in place is in use, except for the cut coax line and the one hooked up to an amp on one end. That seems to be old satellite wiring.

Oh boy... some good news, and perhaps some challenges...

I always get a bit worried when I see a punch-down block, esp in your case... most of these are pre-broadband days, where POTS drops were common to every room, and POTS only needs two pairs to ring and service a landline phone.

These days with high quality cordless phones* - e.g. DECT 6.o, makes sense to repurpose the wiring if one can... tip, for Cordless phones, consider the Panasonic line, very good, very affordable, long range, and they don't interfere with WiFi.

* note that Panasonic is DECT 6.0 Plus - they have a lot of proprietary extensions on the DECT spec... but as long as you stay with their Base Station and Extensions, they're fine, and many include BT integration with Smartphones, which might be interesting to some - in my case, I got a base and 5 extensions, with 2-line capability, voice mail, and Bluetooth integration for $100 bucks at costco​

That being said - not impossible, but a bit of planning and work.

If you want to DIY - get a Toner and Wand setup, this helps sort out where the wires are, and how they're connected... you can get these over at HomeDepot for around 90 bucks...

Once there - you'll need a crimper and perhaps some new keystones at the room drops, so plan to rewire those... a box of RJ-45 jacks and a quality crimper will run you around $50 bucks.

Wiring - Decide on a scheme - I'd suggest the T-568B, but T-568A is ok, if you're consistent...

Here's the keystone wiring... again, I suggest T568B there...

Once you're done there - you'll likely need a switch for the ethernet, now that we've taken that CAT5 from POTS/Telco to Ethernet...

8 port unmanaged switches - TP-Link, Netgear, D-Link, Linksys are all good, and most are well under $40 - buy on price, not on brand there, these are all pretty much the same.

With an 8 port switch, you'll have 7 downstream, and one uplink port...

Working with the in-house wiring - it's a bit of an advanced job - with the tools involved, might be better to get a contractor in that works with low-voltage stuff - most telco/cable guys have the tools and the experience to get things done in short order - shouldn't take more that perhaps an hour for an expert.

Best of luck!

 

[CaptainSTX]

Any particular reason you want to install rack mounted equipment?

You only have eight Cat5 drops to deal with. I would look for a smaller patch pannel that you can mount between the studs. As a simplier option just plug the ends of the the Cat5 cables directly into a switch.

Steps to repurpose the equipment:

On the basement ends ditch the punch down block and either punch down onto your patch panel or add male RJ45 ends and plug into switch. The 568B is the most common pinning pattern. 568A will work but unless you have a reason use 568B. If you want you can leave some of the existing jacks as phone.

Replace exsisting phone jacks to be used for data with Cat5e Keystone jacks. Phone jacks only used 6 of the 8 wires.

Locate and identify where the end of each cable goes and tag them.

Test every cable run that you have modified and identified with a tester similar to what sfx2000 recommended. Do not proceed without testing unless you are bald and have no hair to rip out.

Install your modem and router in the basement if you want to keep all your equipment centralized. This means you will probably need to install an AP elsewhere in your home if you plan to use WiFi. If you don't want to use an AP then install your modem anywhere you have a coxial drop in your home then use the nearest Ethernet jack to back haul you Ethernet to the basement and then using your switch and patch panel feed the other Ethernet jacks in your home.

Include a UPS in your setup to provide standby power and to protect your hardware.

 

[ncfoster]

Thank you both for your replies.

Oh boy... some good news, and perhaps some challenges...

I always get a bit worried when I see a punch-down block, esp in your case... most of these are pre-broadband days, where POTS drops were common to every room, and POTS only needs two pairs to ring and service a landline phone.

The home was built in 2006, so I am somewhat optimistic that the cabling itself is fine. Who knows if they compromised it by using it for phone, but I am thinking nothing too horrible was done.

These days with high quality cordless phones* - e.g. DECT 6.o, makes sense to repurpose the wiring if one can... tip, for Cordless phones, consider the Panasonic line, very good, very affordable, long range, and they don't interfere with WiFi.

We do have Panasonic cordless phones. They probably don't have all of the bells and whistles, as they are not brand new. I will have to check what version of DECT they are.

If you want to DIY - get a Toner and Wand setup, this helps sort out where the wires are, and how they're connected... you can get these over at HomeDepot for around 90 bucks...

I will look at that tool. Thanks. $90 is a little steep for a one-time job, so maybe I will hire someone.

Once there - you'll need a crimper and perhaps some new keystones at the room drops, so plan to rewire those... a box of RJ-45 jacks and a quality crimper will run you around $50 bucks.

I had a crimper at some point. Am I incorrect in thinking that if I am using a patch panel, I will not need a crimper? I was assuming all connections would be punched down at the patch panel and keystones, leaving patch cables to make the final connections. Am I missing something?

Wiring - Decide on a scheme - I'd suggest the T-568B, but T-568A is ok, if you're consistent...

That part I am pretty well-versed in, having done this before.

Once you're done there - you'll likely need a switch for the ethernet, now that we've taken that CAT5 from POTS/Telco to Ethernet...

8 port unmanaged switches - TP-Link, Netgear, D-Link, Linksys are all good, and most are well under $40 - buy on price, not on brand there, these are all pretty much the same.

With an 8 port switch, you'll have 7 downstream, and one uplink port...

I have a 16 port D-Link switch. http://us.dlink.com/products/business-solutions/dgs-1016d/
Based on your advice, I am assuming there is no reason to replace it, but if need be, I will.

Working with the in-house wiring - it's a bit of an advanced job - with the tools involved, might be better to get a contractor in that works with low-voltage stuff - most telco/cable guys have the tools and the experience to get things done in short order - shouldn't take more that perhaps an hour for an expert.

Best of luck!

Any idea how much I should expect the labor component to cost if I went this route? How would you locate a good contractor?

Any particular reason you want to install rack mounted equipment?

You only have eight Cat5 drops to deal with. I would look for a smaller patch pannel that you can mount between the studs. As a simplier option just plug the ends of the the Cat5 cables directly into a switch.

My reasons are: 1) I had a Leviton cabinet in my previous house that partially achieved the goal of organization, but it did not house the cable modem or switch effectively; 2) my existing switch is rack mountable, so between that and the patch panel, I feel like that would be the neatest.

Test every cable run that you have modified and identified with a tester similar to what sfx2000 recommended. Do not proceed without testing unless you are bald and have no hair to rip out.

I need all of my remaining hair, thanks.

Install your modem and router in the basement if you want to keep all your equipment centralized. This means you will probably need to install an AP elsewhere in your home if you plan to use WiFi. If you don't want to use an AP then install your modem anywhere you have a coxial drop in your home then use the nearest Ethernet jack to back haul you Ethernet to the basement and then using your switch and patch panel feed the other Ethernet jacks in your home.

This is in line with how I did things before. This is exactly what I had in mind.

Include a UPS in your setup to provide standby power and to protect your hardware.

I am a big UPS user. I am curious as to the best way to integrate that neatly into a wall-mounted setup. Obviously, I am trying to do something as neat and organized as possible. UPS units obviously tend to be quite heavy, so I assume it should stay on the floor. Do I run all of the power cables back down to the UPS, or just plug the rack-mount power strip into one of the UPS ports? I know that you are not necessarily sold on the rack mount idea (and I am considering your suggestion as well), but would I be inviting trouble if I plugged everything into one outlet, chaining the power strip?

Thanks again!

 

[coxhaus]

I would use a small CAT5e patch panel. Put a piece of plywood across the studs with a hole in there for the CAT5e wire to pass through then attach the patch panel to the plywood. The UPS will fit on the floor under the patch panel. Use your choice of a small rack or shelves underneath. In wall CAT5e wire is solid core wire and needs not to be moved or it will break.

If you need to buy tools and learn how to use them then I would consider hiring someone with tools and knowledge. You may want to buy the patch panel and female CAT5e blocks ahead of time if you find a worker bee and not a contractor. Don't scrimp on punch blocks and panel. Buy a good name brand.

 

[ncfoster]

I would use a small CAT5e patch panel. Put a piece of plywood across the studs with a hole in there for the CAT5e wire to pass through then attach the patch panel to the plywood. The UPS will fit on the floor under the patch panel. Use your choice of a small rack or shelves underneath. In wall CAT5e wire is solid core wire and needs not to be moved or it will break.

If you need to buy tools and learn how to use them then I would consider hiring someone with tools and knowledge. You may want to buy the patch panel and female CAT5e blocks ahead of time if you find a worker bee and not a contractor. Don't scrimp on punch blocks and panel. Buy a good name brand.

Thanks for the input. I already have some Leviton CAT5e blocks from before. I presume that is ok? I am not clear on what the better brands of patch panels would be. I saw in a video that I should go for 110, not universal, but that is as much as I know.

 

[degrub]

Is that RG6 or 59 in your cable tv distribution amp ?
Digital or analog cable TV ?
If the other cut cable is RG6, you can repurpose it with MOCA 2 modems to get ethernet to a AP if it goes to a good spot.
If it is all RG6, then you have a lot of flexibility running MOCA 2 on the same cables to extend ethernet if the CAT5 cable doesn't work out.

 

[ncfoster]

Is that RG6 or 59 in your cable tv distribution amp ?
Digital or analog cable TV ?
If the other cut cable is RG6, you can repurpose it with MOCA 2 modems to get ethernet to a AP if it goes to a good spot.
If it is all RG6, then you have a lot of flexibility running MOCA 2 on the same cables to extend ethernet if the CAT5 cable doesn't work out.

It is all RG6. The one that is cut and the one that is connected to the small in-line amp appear to be a pair from an inactive DirecTV dish, so I don't think that cable will lead anywhere useful.

As far as MOCA goes, I have a Tivo Roamio and 2 Tivo Minis that will be part of the setup. The Roamio will serve as a MOCA bridge to the Minis. I am unfamiliar with other applications of MOCA or how I can leverage this to my advantage. I am definitely glad to have an additional avenue to pursue. If I am already using the Roamio as a MOCA bridge, how might this look? Would I just put a MOCA modem at a location where the coax runs, but CAT5e does not?

 

[degrub]

I don’t have experience with Tivo, but this looks very promising.
https://support.tivo.com/articles/Installation_Setup_Configuration/MoCA-Networking-Help

 

[thiggins]

+1 for using a patch panel. Crimping plugs is much more of a pain....

 

[CaptainSTX]

Thank you both for your replies.

I am a big UPS user. I am curious as to the best way to integrate that neatly into a wall-mounted setup. Obviously, I am trying to do something as neat and organized as possible. UPS units obviously tend to be quite heavy, so I assume it should stay on the floor. Do I run all of the power cables back down to the UPS, or just plug the rack-mount power strip into one of the UPS ports? I know that you are not necessarily sold on the rack mount idea (and I am considering your suggestion as well), but would I be inviting trouble if I plugged everything into one outlet, chaining the power strip?

Thanks again!

Using a patch pannel is the easy way and avoids having to install male plugs. PITA

As for the UPS it depends on its size and if you need battery back up for all devices. I plug critical gear into the outlets with both battery backup and surge protection. Other devices into the outlets with surge protection only. Use two power strips if that makes the installation neater.

 

[ncfoster]

Anyone with a rack recommendation or guidance? Or is everyone in the camp that I am making this into too big of a thing?

 

[ncfoster]

I don’t have experience with Tivo, but this looks very promising.
https://support.tivo.com/articles/Installation_Setup_Configuration/MoCA-Networking-Help

I have used the Tivo and the MoCA capabilities in two locations already. It definitely works well.

The only reason I was talking about it was because someone else mentioned that MoCA might be useful for wiring to other locations. Not sure if that is true in my case, but I was trying to understand what was being described.

 

[CaptainSTX]

I have used the Tivo and the MoCA capabilities in two locations already. It definitely works well.

The only reason I was talking about it was because someone else mentioned that MoCA might be useful for wiring to other locations. Not sure if that is true in my case, but I was trying to understand what was being described.

I use TIVO and run it entirely on Ethernet. One TIVO DVR/Receiver links to three additional TVs. I also had coaxial available but Ethernet is simple and just works. Manage everything on a single network. Adding MOCA just adds another set of potential issues.

 

[coxhaus]

Anyone with a rack recommendation or guidance? Or is everyone in the camp that I am making this into too big of a thing?

I like the Dell half racks. I have one which I am getting rid of because I don't run multiple servers any more. You really need to think about what equipment goes into a rack. A patch panel is not one of them.

 

[sfx2000]

Anyone with a rack recommendation or guidance? Or is everyone in the camp that I am making this into too big of a thing?

Tripp Lite have a few wall mount racks that are interesting...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TGUYI2/?tag=snbforums-20

Can dig around from there if one wants more or less...

 

[ncfoster]

I like the Dell half racks. I have one which I am getting rid of because I don't run multiple servers any more. You really need to think about what equipment goes into a rack. A patch panel is not one of them.

Ok. I feel like a bit of an idiot. When I say rack in this context, I mean wall bracket for rack-mountable hardware, not a legit server rack. Please excuse my misuse of terminology.

 

[coxhaus]

I am sure why you would want a wall mount. Maybe light duty. When patch panels need to go to racks they are floor mounted with hundreds of connections.

 

[tannebil]

You could use a structured media enclosure like Leviton sells but it's not deep enough if you want to install a bunch of active gear in it. It's fine for a patch panel, a switch, a cable amp, a modem, and even a small UPS if you get the extension bracket. Mounts in the wall. But if you want to start installing NAS units, it's not a good choice. But it's a neat, unobtrusive solution.

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/residential/networking/inside-the-structured-media-enclosure

 

[TexasTiger]

You could use a structured media enclosure like Leviton

But then to achieve a neat solution, you're looking at $65 just for the punch down for 12 Cat 5e ports with the 476TM-512 , and $145!! for a 24 port Cat 6 version. That's heinous for what amounts to a branded patch panel.

I've got a similar issue as the OP, except the builder left all the wires hanging inside a structured wiring box. Helpfully, there's no slack at all for the Cat5e, so to avoid dropping $145 as above, I'm going to have to mount a patch panel vertically right next to the wiring enclosure just so I can then use patch cables to reach a switch on a cheap-o open rackmount setup with a 24 gigabit switch that will only run $100.