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Advice needed, multi-port router and AP.

SandmanXX

Regular Contributor
I've been on the forums awhile, and there's a wealth of information here. I don't see what I need as of yet, so I'll pose my question/situation here.

I'm looking for a router with 5 (or more) available ports, and a wireless AP with the same amount of ports. The newer the better, and at this moment a wired connection can not be done, although in the future I MAY be able to get a wire to the AP from the router.
The AP (Dlink WUMC710) has 4 ports, I now need at least 5, 6 or more would be better. I don't know much about getting/using a switch, but I would like to stay AP as I need the wireless signal boost to the other side of the house.

I tend to like Netgear's stuff, as I currently have a 7000, but I need a couple more ports due to the wiring needs to the router, and the current Dlink WUMC with 4 ports needs to be expanded as well. I think I'd like to look at either Netgear or Asus equipment, so if anyone has any input on 5+ port equipment, please let me know.
Streaming and gaming will be involved, so I think I need to stay in the upper speed bracket with the equipment.

Thanks!
 
The Asus GT5300 if you want the newest generation hardware. There is also the Netgear R9000 which has as many ports as you need plus a 10 Gigabit port, and has the excellent QCA9984 (best consumer WiFi chip IMHO) (also in the R7800) WiFi chip, but its overpriced and the 60 Ghz band is kinda useless for the average consumer. The GT5300 would be the better buy of the two and WiFi performance should be pretty close to QCA9984 based units.

If going for an older gen unit the Netgear R8500, Asus AC5300/AC88U all are pretty good and use pretty much the same Broadcom hardware WiFi/CPU wise. If buying a Broadcom based router though make sure to turn off MU-MIMO as it can be detrimental.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply! Yes, I think that the Asus GT5300 router would definitely be somewhat future-proof. It's in the upper end of my spending thoughts, but still a possibility. Unfortunately, the Asus RT-5300 only has the 4 ports. :(
Any input on the AP end of things?
Thanks!
 
I tend to like Netgear's stuff
What with Netgear offering 8-port gigabit unmanaged switches for like $40 (and less for 5-port) I'm not sure that a 4-port router should be a major problem? Not much to know, an unmanaged switch is "plug 'n play", nothing to set up, just plug in your cables.

If most of your traffic is within your house get the 8-port switch and connect them to the switch. If most of your traffic is Internet it won't matter much where you plug them in (router or switch).
 
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What with Netgear offering 8-port gigabit unmanaged switches for like $40 (and less for 5-port) I'm not sure that a 4-port router should be a major problem? Not much to know, an unmanaged switch is "plug 'n play", nothing to set up, just plug in your cables.

If most of your traffic is within your house get the 8-port switch and connect them to the switch. If most of your traffic is Internet it won't matter much where you plug them in (router or switch).


So, you're saying find a good, cheaper AC router, (4 ports is ok), and get an unmanaged switch to plug in the 5-6 devices I have, then plug that switch into the router(working as an ap) and that should get what I want out of it? Should I expect any lag issues or stuttering, being as the router/switch combo would be mainly used for the streaming and small device connectivity? Forgive my ignorance on the switch part, as I know next to nothing about those in general. :)
Thanks for responding!
 
No it should be good enough I think Klueless is right. I only mentioned the routers since you asked for 5+ port units.
 
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to add confusion to the issue. I was just trying to say if you make 8-ports on a router a priority you are going to rule out some otherwise pretty fine wireless routers. 4-ports shouldn't be a deal breaker (but 8-ports could be a great tie-breaker).

When I think of AP I think of a Wireless Access Point meaning it's designed to give you wireless access in an area that's relatively weak. If you can hardwire the AP you will get optimum performance and you can place the AP's Ethernet ports (and a fresh Wifi signal) exactly where you need it.

If you can't hardwire your AP then you will be configuring it as a WiFi extender (or repeater) which you already have? That means you probably won't be able to locate it in the far side of the house because the signal is already too weak. You'll probably need to locate somewhere (call it "halfway") between your wireless router and the far side which would leave your Ethernet ports sitting in the wrong location.

I don't think of a switch as an AP, it's a uh, well, it's a switch. Everything connects at gigabit speeds including the wire that connects to the router. (Many of us don't consider a gigabit wire a "pinch point".)

You don't say much about how your current 7000 is performing. If it's doing OK you can save a bunch of bucks by simply adding an 8-port switch to it.

And is the new AP to replace your existing Dlink range extender? (Is it a range extender? I don't even know what a WUMC is.) You could simply add a switch.

But I don't know much about what you're using it for? Is that what's feeding WiFi to the "other side of the house"? Is it in a sub-optimal location because of where you needed the Ethernet ports? Perhaps you will get better performance by relocating it? If so then perhaps you can easily run an Ethernet line from the new location to a switch located where you need the Ethernet ports?

I don't know how much flexibility you have regarding configuring your dlink. One configuration is as a simple repeater; if the client sends on the 2.4GHz radio the dlink would simply resend to the router on 2.4GHz. That has severe performance penalties.

Another way would be to have all clients talk on the 5GHz radio and have the dlink always talk to the router at 2.4GHz. Or vice versa. Much better performance. There can be other permutations as well.

If my guesses (and they are just guesses) are anywhere near correct you might just be able to accomplish everything you want for about $100 (two switches and a length of wire).

As you can tell, I'm cheap. I'm also a fan of understanding and fixing what you have. You'll then be in a better position to know exactly where to throw your money.
 
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I'm sorry, I didn't mean to add confusion to the issue. I was just trying to say if you make 8-ports on a router a priority you are going to rule out some otherwise pretty fine wireless routers. 4-ports shouldn't be a deal breaker (but 8-ports could be a great tie-breaker).

When I think of AP I think of a Wireless Access Point meaning it's designed to give you wireless access in an area that's relatively weak. If you can hardwire the AP you will get optimum performance and you can place the AP's Ethernet ports (and a fresh Wifi signal) exactly where you need it.

If you can't hardwire your AP then you will be configuring it as a WiFi extender (or repeater) which you already have? That means you probably won't be able to locate it in the far side of the house because the signal is already too weak. You'll probably need to locate somewhere (call it "halfway") between your wireless router and the far side which would leave your Ethernet ports sitting in the wrong location.

I don't think of a switch as an AP, it's a uh, well, it's a switch. Everything connects at gigabit speeds including the wire that connects to the router. (Many of us don't consider a gigabit wire a "pinch point".)

You don't say much about how your current 7000 is performing. If it's doing OK you can save a bunch of bucks by simply adding an 8-port switch to it.

And is the new AP to replace your existing Dlink range extender? (Is it a range extender? I don't even know what a WUMC is.) You could simply add a switch.

But I don't know much about what you're using it for? Is that what's feeding WiFi to the "other side of the house"? Is it in a sub-optimal location because of where you needed the Ethernet ports? Perhaps you will get better performance by relocating it? If so then perhaps you can easily run an Ethernet line from the new location to a switch located where you need the Ethernet ports?

I don't know how much flexibility you have regarding configuring your dlink. One configuration is as a simple repeater; if the client sends on the 2.4GHz radio the dlink would simply resend to the router on 2.4GHz. That has severe performance penalties.

Another way would be to have all clients talk on the 5GHz radio and have the dlink always talk to the router at 2.4GHz. Or vice versa. Much better performance. There can be other permutations as well.

If my guesses (and they are just guesses) are anywhere near correct you might just be able to accomplish everything you want for about $100 (two switches and a length of wire).

As you can tell, I'm cheap. I'm also a fan of understanding and fixing what you have. You'll then be in a better position to know exactly where to throw your money.


Thank you two very much for your input, I appreciate it!

I have ordered that Asus GT5300 and a trendnet green 5 port unmanaged switch, mostly based on recommendations.

No need for apology, Klueless, I probably wasn't the clearest when I posted, I felt a little hand-lazy as I had an injection earlier that day for possible carpal tunnel, so was conserving my typing. :)

It's possible I misunderstood the DLink's function when I bought it years ago. edit: Yea, the more I read up on it, I don't see anything about what I thought is was doing. That may be part of my problem, weaker signal in that half of the house. They are now calling it a media connector bridge. https://www.linksys.com/gb/p/P-WUMC710/

Here's more on what I should have elaborated on earlier.
2k sq ft home, rectangular, single story. Out in lightly populated country, so not -much- channel interference. Internet is Spectrum, coming in as coax. Motorola(Arris) surfboard SB6190 modem, owned. The Nighthawk R7000 (main router) is in the western quarter from one end of the house, and the Dlink AP is about the 3/4 mark going in the same direction. The Nighthawk has the PC, Samsung connect, and a couple other things wired into it. The Dlink has the TV, amp, Xbox, and Security camera NVR (8 cameras) wired in.
I also use the DLink to assist the signal on that half-ish side of the house, (edit: at least I thought it was)as the nighthawk doesn't reach as reliably far through the few walls it goes through to get to the eastern side of the house. The Nighthawk is NOT wired into the AP at this time, although in the future I may be able to wire in whatever AP I use to the main router. I do understand that wired is the fastest/bestest. :)
I was looking to upgrade the main router, and as there are a few future additions coming to the house. At this time I am running about 25-30 devices total on the network, with 10-22 wireless devices active at any given time.

My plan is, and input is welcome here, is to upgrade the Nighthawk with the GT5300, then swap the Dlink for the nighthawk, and use the nighthawk as an AP.
I also think of an AP as a signal repeater, and a wired junction, where the wired items plus the wireless devices on that signal is then sent to the router, then beyond.
I plan on using the switch to plug in the extra stuff into one port on the AP(nighthawk), and use the other 3 free ports for more important connections, TV, camera NVR, etc. The extras I see coming are other gaming stations (for the grandkids), and plan on keeping mostly game consoles on the switch, as they will mostly only be used one at a time.

My goal for all of this is to rely on the new router for the western half of the house for signal, and rely on the nighthawk for signal to the eastern side of the house.

Any tweaks or tips will be welcome. I'm still reading up on channel management, etc, to get the best performance from this configuration.

Thanks!
 
Ha ... now I know what that dlink is all about. It's simply a media bridge, it "turns" Ethernet into wireless. I have an old version of it, the WET610. Since it's just one port it's easier to visualize. It simply lets me connect an old (but high end) Ethernet (only) printer wirelessly to my router (so every one can print to it). No signal boost, no retransmit; it's simply an "it is what it is" wireless connection.

If you've a good signal you'll get great performance and if it's a weak signal you'll get what you get.

Your new router "might" improve on the signal a bit such that you'll look like a hero! If not then configuring your old 7000 as a range extender might do the trick.

Possible example:

5300 <== 5GHz ==> 7000 <== 2.4GHz ==> WUMC <=wire=> East Side Ethernet Clients

I drew 5GHz as the backhaul because your 5300 has two 5GHZ radios and you could use one for west side clients and the second for the east side backhaul to the 7000 (but there are many ways to skin the cat) and, hopefully, the 7000 will be "east enough" to serve east side wireless clients well.

Good luck and do keep us posted as to your progress!

BTW: Do you have a cellar or crawl space under your living area?
 
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Ha ... now I know what that dlink is all about. It's simply a media bridge, it "turns" Ethernet into wireless. I have an old version of it, the WET610. Since it's just one port it's easier to visualize. It simply lets me connect an old (but high end) Ethernet (only) printer wirelessly to my router (so every one can print to it). No signal boost, no retransmit; it's simply an "it is what it is" wireless connection.

If you've a good signal you'll get great performance and if it's a weak signal you'll get what you get.

Your new router "might" improve on the signal a bit such that you'll look like a hero! If not then configuring your old 7000 as a range extender might do the trick.

Possible example:

5300 <== 5GHz ==> 7000 <== 2.4GHz ==> WUMC <=wire=> East Side Ethernet Clients

I drew 5GHz as the backhaul because your 5300 has two 5GHZ radios and you could use one for west side clients and the second for the east side backhaul to the 7000 (but there are many ways to skin the cat) and, hopefully, the 7000 will be "east enough" to serve east side wireless clients well.

Good luck and do keep us posted as to your progress!

BTW: Do you have a cellar or crawl space under your living area?

My plan is to get rid of the Dlink 710, actually. Too old, and slower to boot.

I do have a crawl space, and it's looking more and more like I will NEED to wire that 7000 to the 5300, as I'm not finding too many positive comments elsewhere on using the 7000 on just a wireless connection from the 5300 to itself to extend signal range. So far, everywhere I look it's suggested to use the 7000 as an AP, and to wire it as well. I will still try it, or at least do more research these coming days, to see if it will even work wirelessly or not.

It's more wife aggro with drilling small holes in the floor, AND properly covering them up, -behind- an entertainment center, more than anything else slowing me down...
I may have to wait until I'm off and she's at work, although she was instrumental in helping pull camera cables from under the house up through the floor while I was below, feeding them up to her.
:(
 
Now that is sounding better; hardwire and no WUMC. She might be happier if you hired a professional who can crimp his own RJ45s because he/she can drill smaller holes, pull the cable and put the ends on after.

Toys<=wire=>switch <=wire=> 5300 <=wire=> 7000 <=wire=> switch<=wire=>toys

Is your house an "open" style or lots of walls / rooms? I'm almost wondering about locating your 5300 more to the center of the house. 2,000 sq. ft. (50 x 40) isn't huge. Centrally located the 5300 might feed the entire house? (You would then run wire and simply place switches where you need the hardwire hookups.)

If you like to play you would simply connect your router to a long power cable and equally long length of Ethernet cable and walk your router to different locations in the house and test it out using a wireless laptop. (You could even start testing with your 7000 while waiting for the 5300.)

Toys<=wire=>switch <====wire====> 5300 <===wire===> switch<=wire=>toys
 
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I thought about that, but with the geography involved, the router will need to stay close to where it is. The house is more like 25x80.
It's not very open, walls all over the place, really, and the router is situated close to the edge of a fairly open area, towards the middle of the house, although it does sit approximately 1/4-ish of the way into the house from the western edge of the house.
I'm now kinda wondering/hoping that, if the 5300 can get better signal to the further reaches of the eastern end, then I can just use the 7000 as the WUMC is now.. no concerns/use of a signal for wireless clients from the 7000, just the wired toys/switch, and just take advantage of the longer range of the 7000 to get faster speeds from the 7000 to the 5300, I guess you'd call the 7000 a connector(?). This would alleviate wiring the 7000<>5300.

That's scenario 1. Toys <=wire=>switch<=wire=>7000<= wireless =>5300 - wire - toys
Scenario 2 would probably be toys <=wire=><=switch=>7000 <=wire=>5300 - wire - toys
I guess I don't have a scenario 3, as I do not want to go powerline, or mesh, nor do I see a need to buy any more equipment.

As the 7000 would be located around the tv/games, with the intermittent streaming that goes on, I'm thinking/hoping that wireless would be fast enough. I will be reading up to see if there is a way to lock the 5ghz channel from the 7000 to the 5300, if that would be feasible/possible/needed/recommended. (In scenario 1)

I can crimp RJ, it's more of just a weird thing with her and things I do in the house. One of the odd things so far in this long marriage :)

Thanks much for your input so far! I'm learning things I didn't know and finding more to read up on as I go :)
 
I had to reread a couple times but I think I've got it; you're going to try using the 7000 as a wireless wireless access point. I like it. (As far as mesh, depending on how you configure your 7000, you are kind of in effect, creating your own mesh.)

In preparation grab your laptop and connect it at 5GHz to your existing 7000. Standing near your existing router run a speed test. Keep moving further away running speed tests until you are by your WUMC. The results will begin to give you an idea if your plan will work.

If you use an Internet speed test your near field tests will be capped by the speed of your Internet service but, even so, if you see significant degradation in speed where you are planning on placing your AP then you will have learned something, like you might need a backup plan.

A backup plan might be connecting the router to the AP at 2.4GHz (rather than at 5GHz) so try the same speed tests at 2.4GHz.

Are we having fun yet?
 
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Do you have coax in the room where you'd be putting the access point. MoCA adapters can be a lot easier than installing wiring to the access point location or relying on wireless repeating.
 
Do you have coax in the room where you'd be putting the access point. MoCA adapters can be a lot easier than installing wiring.
I do not. The coax is only with the modem, where the modem is wired to the router 20ft away and thru another wall.
 
I had to reread a couple times but I think I've got it; you're going to try using the 7000 as a wireless wireless access point. I like it. (As far as mesh, depending on how you configure your 7000, you are kind of in effect, creating your own mesh.)

In preparation grab your laptop and connect it at 5GHz to your existing 7000. Standing near your existing router run a speed test. Keep moving further away running speed tests until you are by your WUMC. The results will begin to give you an idea if your plan will work.

If you use an Internet speed test your near field tests will be capped by the speed of your Internet service but, even so, if you see significant degradation in speed where you are planning on placing your AP then you will have learned something, like you might need a backup plan.

A backup plan might be connecting the router to the AP at 2.4GHz (rather than at 5GHz) so try the same speed tests at 2.4GHz.

Are we having fun yet?


Of course. Headache and all from reading so much. :)

Walking around with the netgear wifi analytics, I'm watching the signal change around as I move around.
I'm seeing around 80-90% signal, -41 to -67dBm, 840-ish Mbps, on 5g, from the current 7000 to the WUMC. just rounding a slight corner moving away from the WUMC and the 7000 drops the signal down greatly, down to 40ish percent.

So, that tells me the signal is strong to the WUMC, so the 7000 should get a super signal from the 5300 when I get it.
Do you know of a way, or would it be a good idea, to lock that 5ghz from the 7000 to one of the 5ghz channels on the 5300?
 
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So, that tells me the signal is strong to the WUMC, so the 7000 should get a super signal from the 5300 when I get it.
Sounding more and more promising! (BTW what speed test are you using that is showing 800 plus Mbps?)
Do you know of a way, or would it be a good idea, to lock that 5ghz from the 7000 to one of the 5ghz channels on the 5300?
It would be a GR8 idea.

I have neither of those devices so I can only speak generically. You would name/password one of the 5300's 5GHz radios something (like AP7000). Then on the 7000, as you configure extender mode, you would set only the 5GHz radio to connect to the "AP7000" SSID.
 
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Sounding more and more promising! (BTW what speed test are you using that is showing 800 plus Mbps?)

It would be a GR8 idea.

I have neither of those devices so I can only speak generically. You would name/password one of the 5300's 5GHz radios something (like AP7000). Then on the 7000, as you configure extender mode, you would set only the 5GHz radio to connect to the "AP7000" SSID.

It's an android app, built by netgear, and called Wifi analytics. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.netgear.WiFiAnalytics
At 100% signal it tops out at 866 Mbps. I don't know if that's my phone limitation (Motorola force Z2 or not) ( off to try with the wife's IPhone 7 :) )

Ok, so basically label one 5ghz radio an off-regular SSID/network name, on the 5300, and tell the 7000 to connect to it. I guess there's no way to let the 7000 use 2.4 as well, as a fallback, in case of signal loss. At least, I guess I'd lose the dedicated signal ability.
 
It's an android app, built by netgear, and called Wifi analytics.
Good to know, I did not know it gave you speed as well.
I guess there's no way to let the 7000 use 2.4 as well, as a fallback, in case of signal loss
Possibly and probably. I was just trying to reduce the chance of a wireless client connecting to the 7000 on the same radio that the 7000 talks to the 5300 on. If/when that happens it's a definite performance hit but, still, better than not working at all...
 
Good to know, I did not know it gave you speed as well.

Possibly and probably. I was just trying to reduce the chance of a wireless client connecting to the 7000 on the same radio that the 7000 talks to the 5300 on. If/when that happens it's a definite performance hit but, still, better than not working at all...

Well, if scenario one works, then I can certainly ensure that the network from one 5g radio from the 5300 is used by the 7000. I'd just have a unique SSID and pw on the one 5gz, and then tell the 7000 to connect to that. Also, make sure no other devices have the info from that network, I think that would let devices leave the 7000 alone, and wouldn't allow any other clients to connect to the 7000. At least in theory.
I'm thinking that would be bridge mode, according at least to the graphic choices I have on the 7000:
7000modes.JPG


So, it looks like bridge mode will fit scenario 1.
My understanding, from you and others, is repeating mode is 1/2 the speed, basically crippling the network from that device, so I'm staying away from repeater mode.
Checking again, it hasn't shipped yet, so it my be this coming weekend before I get to try this out.
 

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