Before posting, I had tried a 'nvram erase'. When that didn't fix the issue, I did a factory init from the web portal. Still didn't help.
I suspect I have a hardware failure with the 2.4GHz wifi; 5GHz wifi is ok. I can confirm that I don't see the 2.4 signal by running a wifi analyzer from my phone. I'm not even sure when the wifi failed since I have multiple access points with the same ssid but on non-overlapping channels (2.4 and 5 are on different ssids). I've only noticed it when I was troubleshooting a sudden loss of access to the web admin portal and had it repeatedly stop working even after a reboot of the router or restart of the httpd service.
I just bought this a little over a month ago so this is troubling (and just a few days past the return window). I don't remember the out-of-the-box firmware (sticker on back says year 2018), but when the traffic analyzer wasn't working, I did an upgrade straight to the latest 32799 without factory resetting. I don't remember verifying the wifi settings afterwards.
Oh boy, this is my 7th wifi router and this is my first problem of this type. I hope asus support is not bad.