Pls Help w home network planning (incl floorplans)

[coldengrey]

If posted incorrect or less than ideal section, please let me know or move to correct location.. Thanks

Hello- I'm in desperate need of a network mentor or three, lol..

I need to redo my entire home network, as I'm moving current living room-based computer area to a former bedroom, which will now serve as an office/den. I've read and read, but can't get comfortable enough with my understanding of home networking to begin putting holes in walls for outlets yet - without consulting the experts. Need to make sure I do correctly and as optimally/efficient as possible.

I've spent a lot of time on this post in an effort to provide you, the gurus, as easy a job in understanding of what/where/how I need as possible. My only hope is that I don't wind up scaring-off would be help because it's too long or I've made install seem overly complicated - or just plain made confusing

----> First , I need assistance in figuring out the best way to locate/connect existing equipment * PLEASE SEE BELOW *

I'm torn between wanting 100% local network speed/online speed and the ease of just letting wifi routers handle as much wireless as possible- of course, I do have several clients that DO NOT have wifi adapters - so I'll be forced to wire some ethernet...

----> Second, as well as assistance with how to connect/wire existing equipment Perhaps you can suggest the best way for me to invest budget -> either additional wifi router/extender, ect or ethernet cable and outlets for most everything or

I'm not the handiest person and cannot afford to pay someone. Am dreading installing outlets into existing walls, but do not want a mess of ethernet cables drilled up through carpet as I currently have - as there will be no giant 26" CRT TV to hide in a corner

Major Importance is TRYING to locate each Network Device, with LAN Ports, in locations that will minimize number of Ethernet Cables I have to send from one room to another (either drilling up through carpet or installing Ethernet Outlets in existing walls)

High Priority is making sure everything is optimized in location and connections, making sure I can stream Local Network attached Hard Drive Movie Library to various connected media devices/clients, as well as wifi connection for my devices to roam around


----> Here's a list of my current equipment.
-------------
A) *NETWORK EQUIP
* Network Equip is non room specific (that's what I need help with
The Only Few I'd Prefer in a certain room is:
-> Asus AC68 Router - in Living Room because it is the central most room of house/property.
-> Modem - Prefer NOT in Living Room. Want to MINIMIZE Mess of Cables in Living Room!
-> Switch - Again, NOT in Living Room. Minimize Mess of Cables

1. Router 1
*Asus RT-AC68 (WiFi AC Router) (4 Gigabit LAN)
* WLAN IN from Modem

2. Router 2
D Link DIR-655 (WiFi N 2.4 GHz ONLY) (4 Gigabit LAN)

3. (Comcast) Wireless Gateway VOIP Modem
*ARRIS TG862G (Requires COAX Cable & Phone Line)(4 Gigabit LAN)
* WLAN OUT to Router 1? (or Router 2?)
* Requires Coax Internet Cable from Splitter (Located in Drop Ceiling)
* Requires Phone Line (Basement Next To Stairs - Basement Client Wall)

4. 8 Port Gigabit Switch
Western Digital My Net 8 port Gigabit Switch

5. *Splitter
(6 or 8 way) Located in Drop Ceiling, in Basement, Midway point, on North Side of House
• Not Network specific, but IS important for understanding the proximity and orientation of wiring COAX Internet and TV lines to rooms
---------
CLIENTS ARE SHOWN PER DESIRED ROOM ON INCLUDED FLOORPLAN IMAGES. If needed, I can edit and add - just say so...


Notes about floor plan(s) I did Best I could do, work with me

I have included images of hand drawn floorplan/layout of my home - consists of main ground level and a finished basement (with drop ceiling )
I also have some outdoor areas, like large deck/pool and attached garage that are priority wifi locations - I've attempted to demonstrate their proximity and orientation to everything as well.

MAIN FLOOR, MINUS OUTDOOR AREAS that need Wifi, aprox. 1,100 ft2


I've included LINKS TO HOSTED LARGER RESOLUTION COPIES If smaller forum limited resolution difficult to read list of each room's clients.
High Res Links:
- Main Floor plan with clients per room
Sky Drive Hosted Higher Resolution jpg 1 of 3
http://1drv.ms/1kIoqLy


- Basement Floor plan with clients, coax splitter proximity, ect
Sky Drive Hosted Higher Resolution jpg 2 of 3
http://1drv.ms/1kIqaEL

- Main Floor Room Dimensions. Indoor Area Aprox *1100 ft2
*excluding Garage and outdoor Wifi areas
Sky Drive Hosted Higher Resolution jpg 3 of 3
http://1drv.ms/1kIqDXs



Thanks a lot in advance for any/all help and mentoring!
jd md

 

[abailey]

Ok I have a few questions.
1)Where is your Comcast Arris TG862G currently located and where would you like it after your change.
2) Do you use the Arris device for Wifi Currently?
3) Where are you Asus and Dlink routers currently? Do you get good wireless coverage as your setup is now?
4) Do you get cable TV from your cable company? If so what all rooms have Cable TV receivers?
6) What rooms currently have Ethernet wired (if any)? What rooms currently have COAX wires?
5) Really need a ballpark budget to start out with.

 

[mervincm]

If this is a house you own, just do it. Just build yourself a closet or something in the basement and then run 2 CAT6a cables to each room. Terminate them to a wall jack nearby a power outlet. I did it to every room in my single level house, at at one time or another something has been plugged into everyone of those wall jacks. You can move access points around and see what gives you the best coverage. You can plug in a switch in any room you have a pile of devices.
Also, you can velcro a small wireless access point, switch, or routers acting as a wireless access point&switch to the back of almost piece of furniture. In your TV area, I would not hesitate to install a switch there, zip tie it to the back of your TV.

Also, don't forget about that plastic channeling you can get to hide wires. it can be painted the same color as your walls.

I only use wireless for battery powered mobile devices. Everything else gets cat6

I don't use Wifi Extenders either, I have 3 wireless APs (well two and a router acting as one) all cat 6'd back to my basement closet/switch

Another thing, if you want to hide patch cables, buy the right length in (white/black) CAT7 patch cables from monoprice, they are still cheap, and smaller/more flexible than cat6. they are easy to push under your baseboards especially if you have carpets.

 

[stevech]

...
I only use wireless for battery powered mobile devices. Everything else gets cat6

Without mobility, there's no need for wireless!

 

[azazel1024]

Correction to the cable suggestions. Cat5e or cat6 at most. 6a is overkill, costs a lot more, is larger and less flexible. Unless you have long 10 gigabit ethernet runs or think you will in the future or think you might have to have large wire trunks, cat6a will not be needed. At least not until 40/100GbE becomes common (if ever).

5e will handle 10 gigabit ethernet to 45 meters. 6 will handle it to 55 meters. 6a to 100 meters. 6a is designed for 10GbE for very long runs, or for situations where there is a lot of EMI from big cabling trunks (like bundling 6+ wires together, or server rooms where you have dozens of servers and tons of wires cross crossing and running together).

Cat7 is way beyond a waste and is not a standard.

For the install, if you want to minimize wall cutting, mervincm's suggestion is pretty much right now. Run it under your baseboards, at least if you have carpet. If you don't have carpet, pull the baseboard off and run it behind the baseboard. Most baseboards are tall enough that you can slice off some of the drywall behind the baseboards and run the ethernet behind the baseboard then in the gap. Then cut a slightly larger hole to run it in to the stud bay where you want the jack and cut the hole for the box where you want it, run the wire up to the box and reinstall the baseboard.

Easiest way to take off baseboard is get a pair of wide, at least 4", sharp putty knives and a thin crow/prybar. Slice the caulking with a utility knife and then insert both putty knives behind the baseboard (possibly having to tap them in with a hammer). Then tap in the prybard between the putty knifes carefully. Wiggle a little. Then repeat the whole process every 1-2ft until the baseboard is seperated. This method will generally protect the walls from getting marked up a bunch (might still happen a little) as well as protecting the baseboard.

I'd also find a closet on the main level or better in a basement to act as the networking closet and run everything back to there. Don't hesitate to use switches at end points if you need/want to reduce how many wires are run to a location if it is difficult to pull more than one run to a location.

 

[coldengrey]

Ok I have a few questions.
1)Where is your Comcast Arris TG862G currently located and where would you like it after your change.
2) Do you use the Arris device for Wifi Currently?
3) Where are you Asus and Dlink routers currently? Do you get good wireless coverage as your setup is now?
4) Do you get cable TV from your cable company? If so what all rooms have Cable TV receivers?
5) What rooms currently have Ethernet wired (if any)? What rooms currently have COAX wires?
6) Really need a ballpark budget to start out with.

First and Foremost, thanks for response(es) it means a lot to me, I've had 2 tv's stuck in livingroom like a hillbilly for too long!

I reread my post and realized how demanding and overly complicated I've made this - maybe not, but I surely could've presented more efficiently...

Anyways, to address questions...

Currently, I have Everything in living room. Computer Desk is on the East wall (with Modem, Asus RT-AC68, printer, laptop(s), network hard drive is also located there and connected to the asus rt-ac68 router) and 1 Ethernet cable going from asus router to single client right below in base ment.
The only other ethernet cables are routed from living room east desk wall to the opposite living room wall - there are 2 ethernet clients currently there, simply through floor and through drop ceiling below - kinda primitive, but nervous about roughing in ethernet keystone outlets in existing walls...



1)a Comcast Arris Modem Gateway/VOIP currently in Living room on opposite wall of new intended living room client wall (they'll be a couch moved there)

1)b I suppose I'd like it relocated to the back office, unless it would serve better in another room to collect client Ethernet LAN's as a switch (if it works like that or is even needed with 8 port switch and 2 routers?)


2) No, Arris Gateway is in Bridge Mode... Using my beast Asus RT-AC68 for Wifi.


3)a I just recently replaced the Dlink DIR-655 (single band 2.4ghz N) with the Asus RT-AC-68. I'm only using just the asus. Figured I'd re-purpose the Dlink as an extender or something (?), too bad it doesn't have AC or even 5G N (just 2.4ghz N)

3)b Current Wifi is ok inside house, but goes to hell on the deck and/or front driveway. Haven't had the current new asus rt-ac68 yet in warm weather, so unsure exactly how well it will work on deck and by pool. It does work sufficiently on 5g N w ith my laptop in garage office (which is frequently used).

4) Yes, I have Comcast Xfinity in almost every room (HD DVR Recievers in Living Room, Basement. The little DTA adapter boxes are in kitchen, bedrooms) have a coax cable drilled through floor to bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and downstairs...
They are coming off of the coax splitter in the basement drop ceiling (along with the Internet Coax that currently runs from splitter to livingroom to current modem location, along with VOIP phone line)


5) Currently, I have Everything in living room. Computer Desk is on the East wall (with Modem, Asus RT-AC68, printer, laptop(s), network hard drive is also located there and connected to the asus rt-ac68 router) and 1 Ethernet cable going from asus router to single client right below in base ment.

The only other ethernet cables are routed from living room east desk wall to the opposite living room wall - there are 2 ethernet clients currently there, simply through floor and through drop ceiling below - kinda primitive, but nervous about roughing in ethernet keystone outlets in existing walls...

So current ethernet, all in living room, except 1 going below to xbox 360 in basement - connected to LAN ports of Asus ac68
1 - xbox 360 1 (liv room)
2 - xbox 360 2 modded (liv room)
3- network hard drive (local network video to extenders) (living Room)
4 - xbox 360 3 (basement)


6)a Budget, would like to keep as low as possible.
I do already have 3-4 50ft CAT6 premade cables
AND a 1.000 ft bulk spool of CAT 5 from friendly Comcast service tech on last visit.

I also THINK I've a friend (another former installer) who'll lend me any rj-45 tools I need... I'd only have to buy rj-45 ethernet plugs and boots I guess.
---------------
---> My biggest question is where and how to locate and connect various network access points as well as where and how to utilize 2 routers for greatest benifit for wifi...

Not sure If I should/can connect multiple access points (gateway modem, router 1, router 2's LAN ports that have collected room's clients) to single 8 port switch or what?

Would like to do if possible, so only a single (or few as possible) ethernet cable needs to leave a room. Utilizing each network device to collect the LAN clients from a given room and pass to next room (switch?)

thanks so much for help!

 

[azazel1024]

On your final, that is fine and I've seen lots of people do that. I do a hybrid. I like all my rooms to be equipped with LAN drops, but I have no issues collecting devices on a switch or access point instead of running multiple lines to a room. Exceptions are devices that are high bandwidth, like my desktop has two drops just for it, even though the router is sitting on a shelf 5ft away with its own drop. I am a LAN bandwidth whore though (or I guess its a John).

If you have good coverage inside, what I'd do is consider your outside then. I notice you said deck coverage is bad and it sounds like you have a pool.

If your secondary router has external removable antennas, or if not consider getting a cheap one that does, you can locate it in a garage, and then run the antennas through the wall of the garage to the outside using coax pigtail extensions and place the antennas outside, but the router inside. That is how I have one of mine setup, to provide coverage to my backyard (half acre backyard). I'd recommend locating the antennas high up under the eves of the garage roof line as it'll keep them resonable shielded from bad weather (though if it is only the antennas, not a big deal in general). Just put a little bit of rope caulk around the wall penetrations to both seal them and also keep the antennas in one place.

I have aluminum siding, which cuts down on what kind of coverage I can get outside with my indoor router and access point, but it also provides the benefit that my outdoor/garage access point also provides little to no coverage inside the house. So I have clear delinations in what can cover what with little overlap.

 

[mervincm]

Compared to the time and lost opportunity, the cost of cables is minor. Besides, if you own the place, what will work in 10 years its still important! 10Gig E is now on the verge of affordability, so why not plan for it? Some of what I put in 10/15 years ago was cat 5, and I regret it now as the walls are now all finished. 6a seems to me to be tougher, it will handle abuse like being crushed better, and the stiffness is helpful in a way that it forces you to take gentle corners, it won't be bunched up and tied in a knot like some folks think they should do with the extra.

But you are right, for now, for most people, even 5e will do.

Cat7 is only interesting when you have a sticky situation where you want the quality and would like the flexibility. They are still pretty inexpensive.

 

[tipstir]

Comcast has you the all-in-one cable modem/digital phone. They should have given you the other option to have D3 cab modem and divert the digital phone though the house internal phone lines that could save a lot loss throughput on existing step-up.

You could consider dropping the the main land line for cellular phones thus saving you on additional digital land line and rental fees on their all-in-one box. Just knowing which DC3 Cable Modem is required you can buy one yourself. Just give Comcast your Mac Address for that new box. This one one way you can do it. I do this now save a lot of money.

How old is the dwelling?

1920
or
1950
or
1960
or
1970 or newer (here you got more room for options)

I run 14 drops from one manged enterprise switch to each node (devices) thus doing so reduces any though-put loss. If you run many switches you'll end up in loss. It that's okay with you continue to do so. I would go that route. I use CAT 5E here that's it. I am not sold on CAT 6 cost. I do use RG6 Dual and Quad Coax though.

QC from Comcast and DC on 1000 foot box roll I cut and pressure crimp the ends with RG6 weather protection. I run my own HDTV Network here. I don't use Comcast CATV anymore. Same type of modular box use but additional one than they have. I get 71 OTA channels from 480i, 720p and the rest are 1080i HDTV and Dolby Digital 5.1 Sound on 5 HDTV and out is outside in the screened roof house patio.

Of course I had to rewire the Comcast Cable box and remove all what is not needed anymore just to get full speed internet. 3.0GHz Joiner with ground works wonders with lighting.

 

[fistv]

I second 2 cat 5es or 6's on every client wall from the basement terminated to a patch panel, using a wall mounted rack. Add a wall mounted UPS to power the cable modem and phone box as well as the router and switch in the basement. I would add a POE switch to power POE wireless access points. The rack should be big enough for expansion, StarTech RK812WALLOA 8U works well. Remember to cross your 110V ac lines at 90 degrees, don't just run them though the same holes in the floor joists as the electrical wires and don't run them alongside the copper plumbing either, drill the holes as needed and label the wires with a sharpie. It is just as easy to pull 4 wires as 1 or 2 from each drop. You could also run HDMI to the rack but I think that won't be around all that much longer and good hdmi switchers are expensive.
One thing to think on, the new generation of LED TV's, the 4k stuff, will be powered and provisioned over POE ethernet so you might want to pull another cat6 where you plan on having TV's. Cisco makes an 8 port rack mount POE switch that you can use for POE WAPs.

 

[azazel1024]

Unlikely to be powered over POE for upcoming TVs. LED or no, they power requirements are generally WELL above what can be pushed over catagory cabling. 802.3at is 25.5w max delivered. Most 40" LED TVs pull more than that and most 60" are well over 100w, even for LED models.

Just no fuzzy way in bunny heck you are going to power something like that with POE, not without a brand new standard and much higher voltages over the cabling (which is also going to push the wiring from "low voltage" in to "high voltage" both for code and also for safeties sake).

 

[fistv]

Unlikely to be powered over POE for upcoming TVs. LED or no, they power requirements are generally WELL above what can be pushed over catagory cabling. 802.3at is 25.5w max delivered. Most 40" LED TVs pull more than that and most 60" are well over 100w, even for LED models.

Just no fuzzy way in bunny heck you are going to power something like that with POE, not without a brand new standard and much higher voltages over the cabling (which is also going to push the wiring from "low voltage" in to "high voltage" both for code and also for safeties sake).

http://www.hdbaset.org/technology
HDBT is just one example.
I also use ethernet in my conference rooms to get to my overhead projection TV's with hdmi converters from my sources, old school, made by Niles, only one side is powered. Heck, even some of my older samsung lcd 19" monitors use 12-16v wall bricks.
Here is a 200w POE
http://silvertel.com/products/poe-power-over-ethernet.html
It's coming, Samsung and panasonic already have the port on several of their lcd/led tv's that they showed in Vegas.

 

[azazel1024]

And that just makes me cringe horribly. It lists 24 or 54v DC with 200 or 230w. Over just 15ft on 24AWG conductors in 5e/6 that is a 8+% Vdrop. You might get 15ft out of that at 200w...maybe. You'd probably be lucky not to melt the sheathing (at 15ft, that is 16w disipated from very thin wiring!!!). 54v DC is a little more realistic for 230w, but still not much. That much power is just plain not designed to be carried on conductors that tiny unless you are talking hundreds of volts.

Yes, a lot of monitors use only 12-19v power bricks, but those conductors are also likely 14-18AWG range, not 23-25AWG, and generally over short distances and nothing like 200w on them.

POE is pretty much at its limits with 30w. Or else you need much higher voltages, which makes it UNSAFE. Even using best practices for residential AC wiring, it just isn't safe. The sheathing is too thin, to easy to knick, etc.

Yes, I see the spec there of up to 100w over the cable using all 4 conductors (which I modeled above). At that lower power level you are talking 50ft for a ~10% Vdrop. Getting a little excessive there. 100m is a 70% Vdrop, no way you are powering something at those distances.

Really once you start getting much beyond 50ft, which I'll grant is roughly within the distance you'd be talking in a residence, you get excessive power loss.

There isn't a whole lot of good reason to do something like HDbaseT for powering gear unless it has to be located remotely. Even wall mounting something, you are better off just installing a residential power outlet behind where the TV would be mounted while you are mounting the ethernet drop. Vastly more power efficient.

I highly doubt that running HDbaseT would pass muster with electrical code, so non-installed in walls only. Sure, people will "short cut" it and do it anyway and say it is low voltage data wiring.

Short circuit protection my left reproductive organ though. GFCI is pretty darned near instantaneous and you can still get a nasty shock from it before it kicks in. Just like AFCI isn't instantaneous either in preventing an arc that can cause a fire. You don't want to increase the risks anymore by using wires carrying that much voltage that have sheathing that delicate.

If you were going to tell me that the cable standards for something like HDbaseT were much higher than 5e/6, I'd say "sounds fine", but you should not use cat 5e/6 to carry that much voltage (~50v) that also has that much ampacity with sheathing that darned thin and especially that won't be installed as per low voltage wiring electrical standards (you can get an arc at not much over 14v and it doesn't take a lot of ampacity to sustain one either and it can still start a fire and never hit "short circuit" protection levels...which is why AFCI was introduced. I see no mention of AFCI protection on this stuff).

 

[fistv]

Yea, can be a bit unnerving. Could be there will be a new wiring standard coming out with heavier copper. Too soon to tell.

 

[trunolimit]

So this is what I do for a living. Retro jobs suck.

Anyway you mentioned that your basement ceilings are open, correct? You could just drill up from the basement and basically never have to patch any of your walls. If this is the case then dude you need to grab some spools of cat6 and go to town. In fact you can even go fiber and make all your video sources centralized.

Anyway, home depot has a machine that can color match your walls and they have patching kits so making holes in your walls is really not a big deal. just make sure you make neat holes and keep the pieces so you can use them after the job is done. But again if you drill up from your basement then you shouldn't have to patch anything.

next get yourself a bunch of 1 gang low voltage box. And a punch panel. which can be had for cheap.

Now you can pick a spot in the basement and designate it as the nexus of thy home. Have your cable people come back and move your modem to the Nexus of thy home. from there the modem will go into your router, from your router there will be a link that will got to a 24 port switch you will buy. that 24 port switch should be managed but doesn't have to be. you should pull at least 2 cat6 wires per room and have it all go to the punch panel in the basement. then from the punch panel you will have patch cables connected to the switch.

This is the correct and most cost effective way to wire your home. you can then purchase your favorite brand of AP or just grab yourself some apple expresses and shower your house in glorious wifi with each AP being wired.

 

[moosport]

Now you can pick a spot in the basement and designate it as the nexus of thy home. Have your cable people come back and move your modem to the Nexus of thy home. from there the modem will go into your router, from your router there will be a link that will got to a 24 port switch you will buy. that 24 port switch should be managed but doesn't have to be. you should pull at least 2 cat6 wires per room and have it all go to the punch panel in the basement. then from the punch panel you will have patch cables connected to the switch.

This is the correct and most cost effective way to wire your home. you can then purchase your favorite brand of AP or just grab yourself some apple expresses and shower your house in glorious wifi with each AP being wired.

Thats how i did my house. I also ripped out all the phone wiring and plug in the cat3 to the patch panel from the phone box. makes it easy to relocate any phones.

In some rooms you may want to have 4 ports too. If you ever want to add IP cameras, it will be easy. setup vlans to separate out the video/voice and data traffic.

 

[fistv]

This is the correct and most cost effective way to wire your home. you can then purchase your favorite brand of AP or just grab yourself some apple expresses and shower your house in glorious wifi with each AP being wired.

Second that, rule of thumb I learned, if you need one port pull two, if you think you need two pull four. I have never ever heard from a customer say 'gee, I should only have had you put in less jacks', usually it's 'why does it cost so much more now after the sheet rock is up"...
A few companies make bundled cable where they put network, coax and anything else you want in it then wrap it with a sheath. One example:
http://www.broadbandutopia.com/composite.html
I've seen it in stock in the local home depot and lowes.

 

[azazel1024]

Dear sweet fluffy lord that composite cable is expensive! For the cost of 5e and rg6 alone, you could buy the same amount of cabling at something like 1/4th the cost (or less).

Ignoring that, it all depends. If it is going to be difficult/impossible to do new runs later, do it once and double up. If it isn't that difficult (it isn't in my house to all but 2 locations), you can always save on cable and do another pull later if for some reason you find you need to. Most of my locations it would take maybe 5 minutes to run another cable there, a couple I'd have to pull the existing back out with string taped to it (or wire fish) and then pull 2 cables back through, which is more hassle and might take me 10 minutes to do, but no obstructions or anything that'll catch the cables.

Its why I personally don't pull more than I think I might need at a location (which is generally 1, occasionally 2 pulls). My time is worth something, but if I had doubled up on requirements I'd probably have spent an extra $100-150 on cabling, at least. If I have to do another run, its less than half an hour of my time and in the last year, I've had to do 0 extra runs.

If you have to pay someone or locations would be difficult to do, double up is a very safe way to go. Better to pay a small amount in extra labor up front and the wiring cost than it is the huge extra cost or effort to do add later.

Oh, one other note, I don't use low voltage boxes, I only use regular single gang boxes, mostly because the refurb boxes are great because they'll grab the wiring coming through the box punch out instead of it hanging limp and loose from a low voltage box (which is really just a panel cover). Just personal choice though.

 

[fistv]

The composite is pricey, it saves time though for installation. When a friend built his new house 15+ years ago we ran 1 in conduit from every room to his electronic wall in the loft behind a knee wall/crawl space with pull strings. This was a great room style home with studded sheetrock inside wall's, some needed to go to the basement and run back up. We got to it before the sheet rock went up.
The composite you could actually build yourself and put on a hose reel. I'm not a fan of pulling two+ ethernet, 2+ coax and whatever else you want loose from a box unless you have a helper cause one of those boxes is gonna get stuck or kinked and when it happens you will be at the furthest point in the house and at least a floor away. So says Murphy.

 

[trunolimit]

Any one use celerity? It's pricey but when you take into account that you dont need a balun it actually comes out either the same or cheaper. I put these in all my installations. Since its fiber the response time is extremely fast so there is no lag when switching video sources. Also I can run it anywhere and not worry about interference. It's the greatest thing to happen to this business since 30ld flat screens.