Thanks. I did crimped a few with UTP for testing. If it is for testing then it is fine right?Ideally you should use STP connectors with STP cables to ensure the shield doesn't act like a giant EMI antennae. STP connectors with UTP cable is not usually an issue.
Thanks. I did crimped a few
Thanks but I do meant crimped, I use a pass through connectors which ease up installing them for testing.Hi--by crimped do you mean RJ45 connector on the end, or you are using "punch down" keystone jacks?
View attachment 66944
These are "crimped" connections.
View attachment 66945
This is a keystone jack and generally it's referred to as "punch down" instead of crimping.
If you are trying to crimp Cat6a with Cat6 RJ45 connectors, I don't think that's going to go well. Hard enough to just crimp Cat6 cable onto Cat6 RJ45 connectors--a keystone jack is the best terminator for structural cable (like the contractor installed), then use patch cables (with machine installed rj45 connectors on the end) to plug in your devices.
Also, UTP best for home installation unless you have a hydroelectric generator, heavy machinery, car assembly line robotics, etc...STP/F/shielding causes more problems than it solves at home.
Thanks for explaining this further for me. But I do have a question, how do I "ground" them? Most electrical sockets in my country are two pronged, so even if I did use STP connectors would that mean it is not grounded? I will have to ask the contractors about this.I think @fryedchikin 's point is that you risk causing radio interference to yourself and your neighbors if you don't have the cables' shields grounded properly. UTP cable is designed to be okay without a ground, but STP not necessarily. I'm fuzzy on whether both ends need STP-specific connectors, but certainly at least one does, or you have no ground.
Thanks. After visiting that website I realized I have F/UTP. Weird that I remembered from my classes years ago that having a foil and grounding wire mean that the wire are STP not UTP.If there is a shield, either overall or each twisted pair, or both, the shielding must be earthed correctly. Otherwise it will pick up electrical noise and or potential . This can cause communication errors and in the extreme case, damage. Use the correct termination connector for the cable type.
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Universal Networks
www.universalnetworks.co.uk
I remember that there is a single black wire coming out during construction but I didn't see it anywhere, that might be the grounding wire.F/UTP is outside my experience, but some quick googling suggests that it's supposed to have its own connections to building ground. I'm really wondering why your contractor chose that; it seems way overkill for residential construction. If he put it in without a plan for grounding it, he's incompetent.
Oh, I hear you. Until a couple years ago I lived in an old (WW1-era) house, whose original electrical outlets were all two-prong. Previous owners had extended the system in more or less sketchy ways, and I don't think there was ever a proper ground rod until the city's building inspector made us install one while putting in central A/C around 2004. The thing about grounding is that you don't need it until you do ...For electricians here it is kinda weird because we are in the half era if that make sense.
Thanks I just check my PoE switch and router and sure enough they all have plastic ports and use a brick power supply. I don't have a patch panel, I did hear from the contractors said something about a cabinet so I will asked them again about it.FWIW Here's a fairly good explanation. Pay particular attention to Method #3.
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Residential Bonding and Grounding of Shielded Ethernet Cable Systems
Learn how to properly bond and ground shielded Ethernet cable in residential settings with various methods including the truePLUG adapter, DIY options, and tips for mixed shielded/unshielded installs.www.truecable.com
I'd say that the thing to remember is that you don't ground the ethernet cable itself (or its outlet socket). You sometimes ground the equipment the cable is connected to. Most of the time that will only be the frame of the patch cabinet, and possibly a switch in that cabinet. Most home network equipment that you plug an Ethernet cable into is not grounded and is isolated from the mains ground. Think about a home router, it uses an ungrounded power adapter with a switch mode power supply providing isolated DC. This means that most of the time a shielded ethernet cable is effectively floating. If you look at the ethernet sockets of most home routers there is no connection to the metallic shell of a shielded cable, they're plastic sockets.
I absolutely agree, what I am even suprised more by is that they defended it by saying country like Japan doesn't have a grounding wire but Japan did just forced a must on grounding wire on every new electrical socket since like the 2010 lolOh, I hear you. Until a couple years ago I lived in an old (WW1-era) house, whose original electrical outlets were all two-prong. Previous owners had extended the system in more or less sketchy ways, and I don't think there was ever a proper ground rod until the city's building inspector made us install one while putting in central A/C around 2004. The thing about grounding is that you don't need it until you do ...
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