All internal wireless cards for laptops "only" have two antennas. if your laptop only has a single antenna wire, I'd say you should forget about adding AC to it, because you really need 2x2 to take advantage of the upgrade.
The Intel 7260ac will fit and that's the card you want to try to upgrade to.
I just did this same upgrade yesterday on my main laptop I use for work and at home. I have an HP DV6 with an i-7 3rd gen processor which had a decent (and very reliable) Ralink b/g/n adapter. I'd been using an ASUS AC53 USB dongle with great results, but I wanted to make it "clean" and do an internal upgade. So I bought the Intel 7260AC +Bluetooth adapter from Amazon.com, and did the upgrade yesterday. I will say that it works great and I am getting even better throughput and signal than I got from the AC63, and I was really happy with the AC53, so I'm really pleased now.
This is really an easy upgrade, and will take about 10 minutes if you do it carefully and have the right drivers on hand. So let me give you the benefit of about 12 hours of futzing around to get things right.
Your several concerns in doing the upgrade should be:
1. Bios "Whitelist". You mention the whitelist. For those who don't know, some computer manufacturers have "whitelists" in the bios code that restricts the kinds of card and aftermarket parts that can be used with particular builds. A lot of early adopters, especially with HP laptops who tried to replace their OEM wireless cards with new Intel 7260's (mostly the 7620n's, but also the AC cards, ran into this issue quite frequently, usually with older model laptops. Their only choice was to either go with a USB dongle and forget about upgrading their internal adapter, or try to find a hacked version of the bios which eliminated the whitelist for their particular model. There are sites out there (I found a couple) that actually offer hacked bios versions for just this situation, but the real issue is that you always run the risk of bricking your machine when using a hacked bios from a unknown source.
Anyway, the "whitelist" issue was and remains pretty common with Lenovos, a lot of HP's and many Toshibas and Sony laptops. Fortunately, my HP laptop (Envy DV6 with a 3rd gen i-7) didn't have the issue. I doubt your Acer has such a whitelist, or if it does that it would exclude the Intel 7260, but you never know until you try. Most of the newer Acers I have seen actually come with 802.11ac adapters installed, and most of them are the Intel 7260AC adapter. But if you have the whitelist, you'll know it as soon as you put the card in, because your computer will likely not boot, or if it does, the card won't be recognized at all. The only way to really know is to try it. And for about $32, the price of the 7260, it's a pretty cheap experiment. Just return the card if it doesn't work (easy if you buy from Amazon).
2. Be aware before you buy, that there are three different versions of the Intel7260 wireless adapter: One is b/g/n only, so you don't want that one; there are two AC versions, one with Bluetooth/AC and one AC only. The AC only is almost impossible to find, so just be aware that whether you want BT or not, you'll probably just have to live with it (you can always separately disable the BT in device manager or in settings in Win8/8.1 if you do not ant to use it; on the other hand, if you do, it works very well).
3. Drivers & Disconnects: When you buy the 7260, you just get a pci-e mini card-- it does not come with a driver. So you'll need to find one that works with your laptop. If Acer has a driver for your particular model, obviously, use it. If not, then look for other Acers running your OS and that are similar and use the driver for that model for the 7260ac.
If you can't locate a suitable driver from Acer, your only choice will be to use the generic Intel drivers. In the case of Intel's drivers, newer and more recent is not necessarily better. This is where the dreaded "disconnect" comes in: If you use the Intel latest drivers (17.1.xxx, from August or Sept 2014), chances are the 7260 will lose functionality if you put our laptop into "sleep" or "hibernation" mode (i.e., if you close the lid for any period of time without shutting down). When you reopen the lid, you will see that you have lost your wifi connection, and try as you might, you will not be able to reconnect. The adapter will be there, but it just won't connect and the only way to remedy the situation is to disable the adapter (in Device Manager) and then re-enable it.
If you search the internet you will find literally thousands of messages posted at dozens of website all complaining about the 7260 "disconnecting" "adapter losing connection/function when resuming from sleep/hibernation".
I mention this problem because when I replaced my old card with the 7260, it appeared to be rock solid, and I kept it running for several hours with no issues. However, when I put the lid down and then reopened it, the adapter wouldn't connect to anything. I could still see the adapter and could attempt to connect to both the 2.4 and 5.0 channels on my router, but it would not connect no matter what I did. The only thing that would allow a new connection would be for me to go into Device Manager, disable the 7260 and then re-enable it and that would solve the problem.
But of course this was not a tenable solution. I mean, who wants to do that every time you open and close the lid of your laptop?
In any event, I learned from others at the Intel forums that apparently the older 16.xx drivers (the new ones are 17.xx) didn't have this disconnect issue and were stable. Anyway, to give you the benefit of the time I wasted on this issue, I'll just give you a link to the Intel 7260 drivers:
http://www.intel.com/support/wireless/wtech/proset-ws/sb/CS-034041.htm
If I were you, I would avoid the consumer drivers and go with the ones designed for IT Professionals (see the link at the top of the page at the link I just gave you). Keep in mind, you DO NOT need to use the Pro/Set Wireless Utility. You only need the drivers. The drivers that finally worked for me were the one in the file "16.10_De164.zip" (the "De" signifies that it doesn't have the ProSet Wireless Utility, just the drivers, and 164 indicates it's for 64bit).
What I did to get the drivers to work correctly was this: First I just installed the 17.10.1 driver (which is shown as the latest and newest). But like the recent 3603 ASUS firmware (which created a host of issues with the 5ghz channel disappearing), those drivers were unstable and did not prevent the "disconnect" from occurring when recovering from "sleep" mode. So I found the 16.10 driver, using the IT Professional download page and installed those instead. And they worked. I can now close and open the lid of my laptop, go into sleep mode, etc., and have no issues with the adapter at all. It's solid and just works.
Anyway, this is actually a 10 minute project if you have the right drivers, the right screwdriver, and are willing to spend about $32 for the card. A word of warning: Be careful with the antenna wires and keep them in the same order as they are in the card you're replacing. Otherwise, this upgrade is a snap.
I highly recommend this upgrade. It just works.