What type of connector does WRT600N uses?
- Thread starter Sunnz
- Start date
The antennas are not removable. See this internal photo.
If you want to open the router, you could gain access to the Hirose UF.L connectors on the board (another photo here). But then you would need "pigtail" connectors to connect from the antenna connector to the board.
Since you would be accessing each radio separately, you could use separate 2.4 and 5 GHz antennas.
If you want to open the router, you could gain access to the Hirose UF.L connectors on the board (another photo here). But then you would need "pigtail" connectors to connect from the antenna connector to the board.
Since you would be accessing each radio separately, you could use separate 2.4 and 5 GHz antennas.
Find any dual-band 6dBi or better antennas?
Yes. If you want only one band, a single band antenna will work.
jdabbs
Super Moderator
When I made my initial reply, I had in mind this antenna, but on closer inspection it's just two antennas sharing a radome (dual feed). Google comes up with both a 6 dBi/8 dBi 2.4/5 GHz omni and a 18/20 dBi directional antenna (pdf, page 11). They'd both need a N-type/RP-SMA adapter to work, but given the cost of multiple antennas, adding another AP may be a better option than upgrading a single unit.
Claykin found this dual-band 6dBi antenna from ZyXEL.
jdabbs
Super Moderator
For the v1.1, it looks like six antennas (at least some of which are not dual-band), two internal. Middle houses two antennas.
i see, thank you for the link and quick response. mine was manufactured in 4/2008. i have always thought it was not a v1.1 since it just says "WRT600N" for the model number. however, i just noticed the FCC ID is Q87-WRT600N11. does that mean it is a v1.1?
i have disassembled it. it does have 6 antennas like in the PDF. i am new to this, but it seems that the 3 black wires are for one band (e.g. 2.4 Ghz) and the other 3 gray wires are for the other band (e.g. 5 Ghz). correct?
if that is the case, then i do not need special dual-band antennas, correct?
i was thinking of replacing the two "rubber duck" antennas, by using a U.FL to RP-SMA Jack pigtail, like l-com's item # CA-UFLRSBQC20.
edit: also, what are the bulky black things near the u.fl connection? i notice there are two types, correlating to the color of the wire. mine are red/blue/black and slightly different than in the PDF. on my black wires are the small type like on the gray wires in the PDF. and on my gray wires are long, slim ones like on the black wires in the PDF (but much thinner). i do not see that on the l-com pigtail. significant?
i have disassembled it. it does have 6 antennas like in the PDF. i am new to this, but it seems that the 3 black wires are for one band (e.g. 2.4 Ghz) and the other 3 gray wires are for the other band (e.g. 5 Ghz). correct?
if that is the case, then i do not need special dual-band antennas, correct?
i was thinking of replacing the two "rubber duck" antennas, by using a U.FL to RP-SMA Jack pigtail, like l-com's item # CA-UFLRSBQC20.
edit: also, what are the bulky black things near the u.fl connection? i notice there are two types, correlating to the color of the wire. mine are red/blue/black and slightly different than in the PDF. on my black wires are the small type like on the gray wires in the PDF. and on my gray wires are long, slim ones like on the black wires in the PDF (but much thinner). i do not see that on the l-com pigtail. significant?
Last edited:
jdabbs
Super Moderator
Correct. Your router FCC ID ends in 11 so it's a v1.1 (v1.0 is V1).
I wouldn't rely on pigtail color. The top board is 5 GHz; tracing the pigtail will identify which antenna/band is being supplied. Your plan is feasible provided you match the replacement antenna with the appropriate band. Either single or dual band antennas will work.
The lumps in heatshrink tubing are probably cable ferrites. Linksys apparently felt it necessary to include them, but you may be able to get by without them.
You may want to consider sourcing your pigtails elsewhere. $16 per cable is a bit steep.
I wouldn't rely on pigtail color. The top board is 5 GHz; tracing the pigtail will identify which antenna/band is being supplied. Your plan is feasible provided you match the replacement antenna with the appropriate band. Either single or dual band antennas will work.
The lumps in heatshrink tubing are probably cable ferrites. Linksys apparently felt it necessary to include them, but you may be able to get by without them.
You may want to consider sourcing your pigtails elsewhere. $16 per cable is a bit steep.
ok i got the pigtails.
the problem i now have is the rp-sma jack on the pigtail is too short, or the plastic housing that the jack is to protrude through is too long.
i could somehow extend the rp-sma jack so it protrudes further. i was thinking a simple rp-sma plug to rp-sma jack adapter, like this. the washer that came with the pigtail is just enough to secure it to the inside of the housing. i would need a second, larger washer to secure it to the outside of the housing. is there anything to worry about with regards to another washer? i could just pick one up at the hardware store. or, does it need to be specially coated or something since it will be in contact with electricity?
thanks
the problem i now have is the rp-sma jack on the pigtail is too short, or the plastic housing that the jack is to protrude through is too long.
i could somehow extend the rp-sma jack so it protrudes further. i was thinking a simple rp-sma plug to rp-sma jack adapter, like this. the washer that came with the pigtail is just enough to secure it to the inside of the housing. i would need a second, larger washer to secure it to the outside of the housing. is there anything to worry about with regards to another washer? i could just pick one up at the hardware store. or, does it need to be specially coated or something since it will be in contact with electricity?
thanks
jdabbs
Super Moderator
Adding an adapter will increase attenuation, so that's less than ideal. Since you're purchasing more parts anyway, you may want to consider getting different pigtails. Bulkhead-style jacks have additional length to account for frame material.
Depending on how the hole and jack interact, you may be able to get away without washers by tightening the antenna to the point that it is flush with the plastic housing. You'd have problems adding/removing antennas in the future, but this may not be an issue for your situation.
Depending on how the hole and jack interact, you may be able to get away without washers by tightening the antenna to the point that it is flush with the plastic housing. You'd have problems adding/removing antennas in the future, but this may not be an issue for your situation.
hmm... the ones i got were actually "bulkhead"... still not long enough. the linksys antennas snap into a plastic cylinder that is about 1/2" long, so it is that cylindrical part of the housing that is keeping the jack from sticking out enough. my first thought was i'd have to saw off the cylinders, which probably would work but i'm not interested in that type of modification.
contrary to your suggestion, and since i was already picking up some other equipment at l-com, i did buy the $16 pigtails. ^.^ they assured me they were of higher quality and had less cable loss. so, perhaps adding an adapter wouldn't be much of a problem?
and i would want the jack to be secure, so i can freely add and remove various antennas at any time. do you think i could just pick up a standard washer at the hardware store?
thanks again for your quick and helpful responses... i'll be sure to post pix for everyone once i get the pigtail secured.
contrary to your suggestion, and since i was already picking up some other equipment at l-com, i did buy the $16 pigtails. ^.^ they assured me they were of higher quality and had less cable loss. so, perhaps adding an adapter wouldn't be much of a problem?
and i would want the jack to be secure, so i can freely add and remove various antennas at any time. do you think i could just pick up a standard washer at the hardware store?
thanks again for your quick and helpful responses... i'll be sure to post pix for everyone once i get the pigtail secured.
jdabbs
Super Moderator
Quoted insertion loss is 0.15 dB@6 GHz; I think that estimate is a bit optimistic. There is some play with different frequencies (in your favor), but a 0.15 dB loss for any signal results in 96.6% of the original signal strength. I don't think that's going to hinder your setup, but it seemed unnecessary at the time.
I do not know whether different types of material will have an impact. I do note that materials are matched, but this can also be explained by concerns about Galvanic corrosion. I'd play it safe and get some nylon or plastic washers.
I do not know whether different types of material will have an impact. I do note that materials are matched, but this can also be explained by concerns about Galvanic corrosion. I'd play it safe and get some nylon or plastic washers.
it's not working out as well as i had hoped.
i've taken some pictures. first, the original problem of the bulkhead jack being too short:
[IMG=http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/4650/pict1524g.jpg][/IMG]
i'm just holding the pigtail so that's why it looks crooked, but you can clearly see the problem with this back piece of the housing.
the washer that came with the pigtail is just about the right size to secure it to the inside of the back piece:
[IMG=http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/9983/pict1522.jpg][/IMG]
my idea was to then add a rp-sma adapater as an extension, it appeared promising:
[IMG=http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5826/pict1526.jpg][/IMG]
however, it still needs another nut and washer to secure it to the outside of the back piece. i just grabbed the nut and washer from the other pigtail to see:
[IMG=http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8136/pict1527.jpg][/IMG]
and, well, the problem here is actually two-fold. first, there is not enough of the jack left for use. second, i am unable to tighten the nuts anymore and so the whole thing is still loose. (the nut on the inside is tight against the adapter, and the nut on the outside is also tight against the adapter.)
at this time, i am out of ideas.
i've taken some pictures. first, the original problem of the bulkhead jack being too short:
[IMG=http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/4650/pict1524g.jpg][/IMG]
i'm just holding the pigtail so that's why it looks crooked, but you can clearly see the problem with this back piece of the housing.
the washer that came with the pigtail is just about the right size to secure it to the inside of the back piece:
[IMG=http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/9983/pict1522.jpg][/IMG]
my idea was to then add a rp-sma adapater as an extension, it appeared promising:
[IMG=http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5826/pict1526.jpg][/IMG]
however, it still needs another nut and washer to secure it to the outside of the back piece. i just grabbed the nut and washer from the other pigtail to see:
[IMG=http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8136/pict1527.jpg][/IMG]
and, well, the problem here is actually two-fold. first, there is not enough of the jack left for use. second, i am unable to tighten the nuts anymore and so the whole thing is still loose. (the nut on the inside is tight against the adapter, and the nut on the outside is also tight against the adapter.)
at this time, i am out of ideas.
Last edited:
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