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Asus RT-AC88U AC3100 Bricked/Failed Firmware update

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Kinda read through this a little quick, saw you tried recovery mode. I had to recover one of my old AC5300's and everytime it started to load the firmware it would fail at some what I first thought was a random %. Router connected to PC, good cable, 1Gbe should've worked fine. Tried other firmware versions, and noticed the % of where it failed to upload changed with the version. It wasn't the version of firmware but the size of the file. I finally found a firmware (had to go back to a very old Merlin version) to find one just small enough, it was 32.7MB. After getting to 98% a dozen times seeing it get to 100%, finish and seeing the router come back to life felt great.

Subsequent testing, I also could've gone a different route say DD-WRT that for the 5300 is just under 27MB, which also worked. Then back on to Merlin, of course...

Drove me nuts for two days trying to figure why recovery mode was failing at the same % for the few FW versions I tried until I stumbled on that 33MB FW size. Not sure if its a timing thing or a file size on the router or the recovery mode program, but got past it by finding the using an older FW, once up I then upgraded to current version. That's my case, recovery mode, PC, 1Gbe, AC5300, that may or may not yeild the same results in your case...
Oh I've tried it all I think the router was just an entire write off. So I've opted to just pay the inspection fee and spell it out nice and clear in my email that there is no failed hardware and now parts need to be placed it just needs a flash so they don't come back at me with all these ridiculous pricing of made up things that's failed.
 
So an update since my Last discussion regarding daisy chaining these Routers.

I found in the "LAN" sub menus of the Asus RT-AC68U AC1900 , a "Route" option. Apparently this menu is for exactly the setup I have where I connect additional routers to the primary router.

So it essentially gives an option to pick a Device from the gateway drop down menu which I selected my RT-AX88U AC3200 and it asked me to set the following information

Network/Host IP: - I Noticed within my RT-AX88U router all the connected devices seem to be using 192.168.(50).XX range. so i naturally assume i would set the network/Host IP to 192.168.50.0 < which i assume means all devices between 0-255

Netmask: - I left that as the 255.255... So on...

Metric: I just set this to "0"

Now I'm no network genius but abit of Chat GPT help I assume what i've done here is told the ac1900 to route all traffic that uses the above IP range directly to the rt-ax88u.

Now I leave this in your capable hands to point out where i've gone wrong lol...
 
Just be aware that Chat GPT sometimes just makes sh1t up. I wouldn't use it as a technical resource without checking out the actual source.
Yeah I figured I wouldn't trust it entirely and have my work shared here to see if anyone spotted something I've done within this sub menu that is not right
 
So an update since my Last discussion regarding daisy chaining these Routers.

I found in the "LAN" sub menus of the Asus RT-AC68U AC1900 , a "Route" option. Apparently this menu is for exactly the setup I have where I connect additional routers to the primary router.

So it essentially gives an option to pick a Device from the gateway drop down menu which I selected my RT-AX88U AC3200 and it asked me to set the following information

Network/Host IP: - I Noticed within my RT-AX88U router all the connected devices seem to be using 192.168.(50).XX range. so i naturally assume i would set the network/Host IP to 192.168.50.0 < which i assume means all devices between 0-255

Netmask: - I left that as the 255.255... So on...

Metric: I just set this to "0"

Now I'm no network genius but abit of Chat GPT help I assume what i've done here is told the ac1900 to route all traffic that uses the above IP range directly to the rt-ax88u.

Now I leave this in your capable hands to point out where i've gone wrong lol...

You only need static routes if you want to disable NAT on the second router. Otherwise there is no need for it (all routes are "directly connected" and/or default gateway). Keeping dual NAT is the simplest solution. You do want to make sure you are using different LAN subnets on each router but other than that it is all automatic.

What wasn't working that necessitated the static route? Most likely better to fix that the right way than to try to rig something with static routes.
 
You only need static routes if you want to disable NAT on the second router. Otherwise there is no need for it (all routes are "directly connected" and/or default gateway). Keeping dual NAT is the simplest solution. You do want to make sure you are using different LAN subnets on each router but other than that it is all automatic.

What wasn't working that necessitated the static route? Most likely better to fix that the right way than to try to rig something with static routes.
There was no real underlying issue with this setup it was more of a toying around to see what would happen, performing that route method I previously mentioned was what I assumed was just directing traffic to all devices connected to the second router I had daisy chained off the first one.

I Initially thought whatever I had ended up fitting up in my home had significantly reduced the upload speeds within my consoles to their respective networks. BUT open further inspection and when I had opened their internal web browsers and performed a speed test from there. I noticed a significant difference which meant that the upload speed that I was seeing from the consoles internal connectivity test was incorrect or it might be capped from their servers.
 
There was no real underlying issue with this setup it was more of a toying around to see what would happen, performing that route method I previously mentioned was what I assumed was just directing traffic to all devices connected to the second router I had daisy chained off the first one.

I Initially thought whatever I had ended up fitting up in my home had significantly reduced the upload speeds within my consoles to their respective networks. BUT open further inspection and when I had opened their internal web browsers and performed a speed test from there. I noticed a significant difference which meant that the upload speed that I was seeing from the consoles internal connectivity test was incorrect or it might be capped from their servers.

The static routes are not needed. Probably not hurting anything but just extra clutter you don't need (and could potentially interfere down the road if you changed some stuff).

Having both routers in their default mode with NAT enabled will automatically work as intended, just make sure the LAN subnet is different on both. In reality it would probably work if they were the same but if you wanted devices on the second to be able to access ones on the first that would not work, and it is just confusing anyway.

If you need to port forward inbound, you'll either need to do it on both routers, or put the second router into DMZ of the first (easier solution). You can also disable NAT on the second router but in that case you will need some static routes set up on both routers, and it won't really give you any benefit most likely.

Speed tests can be unreliable as you don't know what each one is using, best to use a tried and true one like speedtest.net from a wired computer.

I forget, any particular reason you aren't using the second as an AP instead of router, or setting up Aimesh? That extender you got included with the new router has a wired port, may even want to use that as an AP instead of the old AC86. It even supports Aimesh so you could set the two up as an Aimesh system, and you'll be all AX at that point.
 
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Oh I've tried it all I think the router was just an entire write off. So I've opted to just pay the inspection fee and spell it out nice and clear in my email that there is no failed hardware and now parts need to be placed it just needs a flash so they don't come back at me with all these ridiculous pricing of made up things that's failed.

The suggestion of trying a really old firmware in rescue mode is a valid one, is that one of the things you tried? Going back to 384 or maybe even 382 (if it was available for that model), something around 30 megs or smaller in size. Then once successful factory reset and upgrade to the latest, or even take a couple steps to get up to the latest. Worth a shot. Otherwise given the age of that router it probably isn't worth paying even to have it checked out.
 
The static routes are not needed. Probably not hurting anything but just extra clutter you don't need (and could potentially interfere down the road if you changed some stuff).

Having both routers in their default mode with NAT enabled will automatically work as intended, just make sure the LAN subnet is different on both. In reality it would probably work if they were the same but if you wanted devices on the second to be able to access ones on the first that would not work, and it is just confusing anyway.

If you need to port forward inbound, you'll either need to do it on both routers, or put the second router into DMZ of the first (easier solution). You can also disable NAT on the second router but in that case you will need some static routes set up on both routers, and it won't really give you any benefit most likely.

Speed tests can be unreliable as you don't know what each one is using, best to use a tried and true one like speedtest.net from a wired computer.

I forget, any particular reason you aren't using the second as an AP instead of router, or setting up Aimesh? That extender you got included with the new router has a wired port, may even want to use that as an AP instead of the old AC86. It even supports Aimesh so you could set the two up as an Aimesh system, and you'll be all AX at that point.
Oh the only reason I chose not to use it as an AP because. I seperated my personal devices/home office from the rest of the house. Which means I can set a printer up or a storage drive that is accessible for myself while the rest of the home essentially has their own access. Keeping a network for me and a limited set of devices.
 
The suggestion of trying a really old firmware in rescue mode is a valid one, is that one of the things you tried? Going back to 384 or maybe even 382 (if it was available for that model), something around 30 megs or smaller in size. Then once successful factory reset and upgrade to the latest, or even take a couple steps to get up to the latest. Worth a shot. Otherwise given the age of that router it probably isn't worth paying even to have it checked out.
Yeah I know but you gotta remember I no longer can even get it to go into recovery mode. When I power it up I get no lights on the top of it apart from the WAN light and Ethernet light. Essentially just a paper weight. I figured if I was going to get it up and running I was going to use it to replace my AC1900 with it. Increasing wifi range for the other half of the network I had set up. Or pass it on to a family friend of mine who's just looking to get a little bit of coverage in there home.
 
Welcome to the forums @Micky_90.

To be clear, you updated the router via an 'app'? On your phone, tablet, computer, or Mac?

Apps are not to be trusted, ime. Ever.

Kindly stop giving bad information, the Asus Router app simply invokes the routers internal update mechanism.
He's providing you a reason not to use their android app. Use the web GUI from a computer.

His cited reason is bs.

Yeah unfortunately, 24 hours worth of this headache, and couldn't get it to even get to recovery mode. I think it's essentially just killed it and it should be binned. It's pretty new I actually bought it from a friend who bought it for his gaming setup and never used it. It sat in the box for a while so I'm actually annoyed that I spent the money initially when I was warned against buying anymore Asus routers and they warned me about them just randomly failing entirely.

Since asus like most vendors are being dumb and using XOR NAND instead of something like XtraRom, sitting in a box for years without a powerup results in bitrot that can render the system partition corrupted, combine this with variable storage temperatures and the bitrot occurs quicker.

The wrong data corrupted, ie, the internal update manager and you can end up writing the update contents to an invalid region which prevents boot as well as the recovery methods from working.
 
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Kindly stop giving bad information, the Asus Router app simply invokes the routers internal update mechanism.


His cited reason is bs.



Since asus like most vendors are being dumb and using XOR NAND instead of something like XtraRom, sitting in a box for years without a powerup results in bitrot that can render the system partition corrupted, combine this with variable storage temperatures and the bitrot occurs quicker.

The wrong data corrupted, ie, the internal update manager and you can end up writing the update contents to an invalid region which prevents boot as well as the recovery methods from working.
Yep that's essentially where I am with it. A unit pretty much doesn't power up or atleast when it does it does nothing... It'll most likely be flashed from the Asus techs and returned to me. I just hope there is no hardware components that failed within it.
 
@Squall Leonhart, what bad information am I giving, specifically?

Setting up a router via an app isn't the most reliable way to get a stable and reliable network. Even if it works for some.

And 'apps' are the most insecure thing ever created. There is no denying this fact.
 
Yep that's essentially where I am with it. A unit pretty much doesn't power up or atleast when it does it does nothing... It'll most likely be flashed from the Asus techs and returned to me. I just hope there is no hardware components that failed within it.
TL;DR
I don't recall seeing it mentioned but have you tried another mains adapter?
[/tangent]
 
Setting up a router via an app isn't the most reliable way to get a stable and reliable network. Even if it works for some.
The app isn't doing anything but serving as an interface for the routers own internal capabilities, no different to Telnet or the WebGUI.

Yep that's essentially where I am with it. A unit pretty much doesn't power up or atleast when it does it does nothing... It'll most likely be flashed from the Asus techs and returned to me. I just hope there is no hardware components that failed within it.
Your only recourse would be directly rewriting the flash chip with a jtag.

 
Yes, you'd like to think the 'app' was working like that. It doesn't. And it has inherent flaws where any compromises are amplified immensely.

Again. Not the same thing as configuring with a PC you know and trust. (Handheld devices are anything but that).
 
The app isn't doing anything but serving as an interface for the routers own internal capabilities, no different to Telnet or the WebGUI.

Sure, just like accessing my bank accounts from this cool app I found that makes it simpler than using the bank's website. Just have to provide my bank login info. Much easier.
 
Maybe get a used AC and wait for the wifi 7 to come out and the AX will drop in price. But that's just me not wanting to spend hundreds on a home router (got my AC1900 on clearance 6 years ago for like $25 at walmart). I've got a TP Link AC3150 sitting here but since it doesn't support scripting I can't use it as I'm doing vlans with the Asus. Good to have a backup for like, dunno those times when asus releases a bad signature update and locks every router up (luckily didn't impact me).

I went to this from a Cisco/Juniper/HP Procurve setup and I'm doing my best not to start moving in the opposite direction. Adding a 8 port TP link smart switch recently is like "I'll just have one beer after 6 years of sobriety" but so far I've managed to limit it to that. I have a 10 gig capable Cisco router and switch sitting here that I do testing for work on, so the temptation stares me in the face every day.
Excellent analogy. Everyday, I face both temptations. I just steal a moment to remember my wifi 6 setup is just fine for what I run all day. I have several Western Digital My Cloud NAS RAID boxes I use for my own (and several neighbors) data storage needs. I stick with 4 RT-AC88U routers meshed together to offer decent Mbps transfer speeds. Streaming is NOT allowed, since all files are encrypted, by mandate. Combined, each WD NAS box is cabled to their respective routers. I have a high speed internet connection to modulate data transfer speed, requirements
 

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