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Slow connection DIR-655

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BrooklynStudent

New Around Here
If anyone could help me with basically the same problem, I'd be really appreciative. I have a macbook and got a DIR-655 in February. The only place to put the router is on a floor above mine. For a long time the connection has been slow (we only get 768kbps) but consistent. Lately however, the signal has been sporadic and often disappears. To my knowledge, no one has put any new machinery or things in their room that would interfere with the signal. If I take my computer up to the floor where the router is, the signal is way better, but there are times if I am on my floor where I can't get service, but my friend can with his ipod touch. So now I'm not sure where the problem really is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
If anyone could help me with basically the same problem, I'd be really appreciative. I have a macbook and got a DIR-655 in February. The only place to put the router is on a floor above mine. For a long time the connection has been slow (we only get 768kbps) but consistent. Lately however, the signal has been sporadic and often disappears. To my knowledge, no one has put any new machinery or things in their room that would interfere with the signal. If I take my computer up to the floor where the router is, the signal is way better, but there are times if I am on my floor where I can't get service, but my friend can with his ipod touch. So now I'm not sure where the problem really is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Get DAP-xxx from DLINK to DAP = Dlink Access Point to extend your wireless in your pad/dwelling/home. These DAP don't need to be hooked up using wire they're 100% wireless. So all you do is just stick them were you need to extend the wireless in the house. That's about it. Of course there is setup and stuff like that.
 
I was given a DIR-655 from a friend in exchange for a WRT54G that I set up as a repeater using DD-WRT. In my totally wireless G household I've found that this unit does NOT work well when wireless N is turned on at all. It works fine when set to B and G or G only but B,G,N no or N and G didn't work well either. I found this to be rather surprising. Hopefully some of this will be sorted when N becomes a final standard. I wasn't using wireless when G came onto the scene but was there a period when interoperating between B and G was problematic too?

Otherwise this seems to be a fine router.
 
Thanks Tipstir,

Do you have any idea as to why the network will kick me off and then preventing me from logging back in (error joining network) unless I put my computer to sleep and on again? Or why distance from the router seems to have been recently a problem when for months it wasn't?

-Sam
 
How many networks does the MacBook show you? Any new ones that you haven't seen before? Interference can also come from microwave ovens and cordless phones, including many 5.8GHz models.

The n, see if your MacBook supports draft 11n. If it doesn't, set the DIR-655 to g only or b/g only mode. You should also have it set to 20MHz bandwidth mode since Auto (20/40) mode reduces effective range.

You might also try setting the 655 to g-only anyway.

Also read through this series, particularly Part II.
How To Fix Your Wireless Network - Part 1
How To Fix Your Wireless Network - Part 2: Site Surveying
How To Fix Your Wireless Network - Part 3: Increasing Coverage
 
Thanks!

I will implement those suggestions. Would changing the encryption help as well? We have WEP and I hear that WPA is much better. Or would getting larger bandwidth also help?
 
Good point about WEP. Draft 11n routers will actually switch down to 802.11g connect rates (54 Mbps) when WEP or WPA/TKIP are used. Only way to get draft 11n rates is to run with no wireless encryption (not recommended) or WPA2/AES.
 
Good point about WEP. Draft 11n routers will actually switch down to 802.11g connect rates (54 Mbps) when WEP or WPA/TKIP are used. Only way to get draft 11n rates is to run with no wireless encryption (not recommended) or WPA2/AES.

Thiggins:

Do you have any more articles about this I can read up on. This is the first i've head of that. However, if that is the case, it would explain a lot of performance issues for a lot of people. I always knew that different encryption methods could impact througput based on the negotians and key length, etc. but had no idea that using WEP or WPA would actually force a 54 Mbps rate
 
I test this in every wireless router review and it is well-established.
The Wi-Fi Alliance Draft 2.0 Certification testing actually requires the behavior.
 
Hi Thiggins. The switch has sadly not had any effect. I even switched from WEP to WPA encryption thinking that it would improve the signal by making it more secure, but in fact it has weakened it. I have no problem when I'm by the router in either WEP or WPA but when I'm down in my room, WPA makes it virtually impossible to connect (it says I'm not connected) even though I have signal bars, and in WEP I keep lagging out. I'm confused as how a once steady signal changed into an abysmal one. I put the channel selector on auto, so the router can pick the one with least interference. If need be, I will get a DAP repeater, but if you have any other advice of things I could try with the router before I get one, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
Both WEP and WPA/TKIP will result in lower throughput. You have to use no encryption or WPA2/AES to get draft 11n link rates.

Encryption will have no effect on the strength of your signal.

I have already given you the links to the articles on fixing your wireless network. All my suggestions are in there. You can also look at 5 Ways To Fix Slow 802.11n Speed.
 

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