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Broken power button

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Does anyone know switch symbol fin asus rt-ac68u?

I don't have an RT-AC68U, otherwise I'd figure it out.
From the photos, it looks like a common, easy-to-find tactile switch or pushbutton switch. So all you have to do is measure the dimensions in mm:

a) x and y dimensions of the body
b) x and y distances between the pins (looks like six pins total in two rows of three)
c) z dimension of body (not including actuator)
d) z dimension of actuator, sticking above the body, without any removable button cap on the actuator
e) shape of actuator cross-section (round or square, usually), and x and y dimensions of the actuator

Then, the only other necessary measurement is how the switch behaves electrically and whether the actuator is latching or momentary.

With all that info, it should be easy to look up the correct part number.

The switch probably costs no more than $0.50 each.

These switches look similar. Check out the datasheet and note the dimensions that you will have to measure:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/26/MHPS_Q42014-535293.pdf

I am not saying that the switch is one of these switches. They just look a lot like the photos.
 
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After 6+ years this also finally happened couple weeks ago to my N66U. 6x2 LEGO with a straight plane on one side and a good measure of duct tape fixes this within 2 minutes

But after a couple weeks the heat gets to the glue and you have to retape it. Now for the third time.

Just ordered an AC86U :rolleyes: Looking forward to some Merlin magic
 
After 6+ years this also finally happened couple weeks ago to my N66U. 6x2 LEGO with a straight plane on one side and a good measure of duct tape fixes this within 2 minutes

But after a couple weeks the heat gets to the glue and you have to retape it. Now for the third time.

Just ordered an AC86U :rolleyes: Looking forward to some Merlin magic
Well, one must have a reason to buy something new ;)
 
Hello. I came here just say that also my Asus RT-AC66U suffered from the same issue. I fixed the issue by just opening the case, removing the black knob from the power button and then wedging the switch to permanent ON-position. Idea is from this video
.

It's quite sad that there are cheap switches that fail under no use (I guess the switch has been used for like 20 times) in relatively pricey products.

EDIT: the product failed 3 years 1 month after the purchase while it has a 3 year warranty. Geez.
 
This happened to me last night. I haven't even used that button once in 4 years. Will try the trick above but not sure it's the safest so - what's the best router to replace it with? ASUS ac68U any good?

I use it to connect to a Virgin Media Hub 2 in modem mode.

3 tablets 3 phones are always connected. I also stream in 4k sometimes so need that capability

EDIT: Tried the trick above and it works! Incidentally, one of the rubber feet make for an excellent tool to wedge the power button spring on.
 
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It seems that one switch solution got forgotton:
  1. Remove the four rubber feet.
  2. Remove the four Phillips screws under the rubber feet.
  3. Wiggle, jiggle, force the top cover off (don't worry if you break one or more of the plastic clips around the cover, the four screws will finally securely hold the cover).
  4. Pull off the black push button.
  5. Remove the little U shape metal clip that holds the spring.
  6. Remove the spring.
  7. Add the black push button.
  8. Assemble the router.
  9. The power switch stays in the ON position (and you can no longer get the router OFF other than by removing the power supply).
 
Solder across the switch terminals works too :)
Soldering can be a step too far for some router owners.
I also think to believe that the solderpads are under the heatsink, which isn't easy to remove without the right small size screwdriver.
 
Which help do you need?
If it looks exactly like the one in the link it will be >99% the same.
Is it worth to repair it? Or might better to hold it in pressed position with something - your decision.
 
Which help do you need?
If it looks exactly like the one in the link it will be >99% the same.
Is it worth to repair it? Or might better to hold it in pressed position with something - your decision.

Halo,

till now was my answer - adhesive tape. I would like to improve this solution - if it is worth.

Mark
 
If you can solder well it is no problem to change it, only if it is worth for posting the item - might be expensive.
Or desolder old switch and solder a fix connection to the 2 pins which are connected in on-power state. So it is permanently on.
 
If you can solder well it is no problem to change it, only if it is worth for posting the item - might be expensive.
Or desolder old switch and solder a fix connection to the 2 pins which are connected in on-power state. So it is permanently on.

Thank you for your advise.
 
No soldering:
Open the router box, follow below step 1 to 3 and close the router box.
upload_2020-3-24_17-51-23.png
 
Perfect solution found!!! No need to open the router!

RT-N66Fix.jpg


The piece of plastic is end cover from HDMI cable taped with regular scotch tape. It is flat and thick enough that scotch tape holds it securely to keep switch in ON position and plastic doesn't move. Much better than my previous fix with rubber pencil eraser :D

I always knew there was a reason I didn't throw away these plastic end covers from HDMI cable. I just didn't know what it was until now.
 
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After 6+ years this also finally happened couple weeks ago to my N66U. 6x2 LEGO with a straight plane on one side and a good measure of duct tape fixes this within 2 minutes

But after a couple weeks the heat gets to the glue and you have to retape it. Now for the third time.

Just ordered an AC86U :rolleyes: Looking forward to some Merlin magic


For those people who are a little more adventurous, you can do the simple fix that I used. Basically, I removed the spring that pushes the power button back up. The button will stay pushed in afterwards. To do that, I removed the four rubber feet so I could access the four screws that hold the case together. After removing the screws, I had to pry the back cover off using a small screwdriver because there are plastic clips inside. Once the back cover is removed, remove the antennas by unscrewing them and unplug all the cables. It is then possible to slide the circuit out of the casing and see the switch. The spring is the chrome, wire-like metal that is directly underneath the button. It can slowly be pulled off of the switch shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers wiggling side to side. Be aware that the spring will be put completely out of shape but in this case you don’t want to put it back on.
 
For those people who are a little more adventurous, you can do the simple fix that I used. Basically, I removed the spring that pushes the power button back up. The button will stay pushed in afterwards. To do that, I removed the four rubber feet so I could access the four screws that hold the case together. After removing the screws, I had to pry the back cover off using a small screwdriver because there are plastic clips inside. Once the back cover is removed, remove the antennas by unscrewing them and unplug all the cables. It is then possible to slide the circuit out of the casing and see the switch. The spring is the chrome, wire-like metal that is directly underneath the button. It can slowly be pulled off of the switch shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers wiggling side to side. Be aware that the spring will be put completely out of shape but in this case you don’t want to put it back on.
What's new?
https://www.snbforums.com/threads/broken-power-button.13601/page-4#post-228266
https://www.snbforums.com/threads/broken-power-button.13601/page-8#post-551601
https://www.snbforums.com/threads/broken-power-button.13601/page-8#post-563020
 

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