Help diagnosing a TL-WR1043ND issue

[bej08]

Currently I have a TP-Link TL-WR1043ND in the garage acting as my 'main' wireless router, with a wired access point Belkin F6D4230 on the other side of the house.

When I first set it up, everything worked flawlessly. Same SSID, same security, DCHP enabled only on the TP-Link with Belkin assigned a static IP outside of the DHCP range, and when I moved from one end of the house to the other our iPhones would switch over to the stronger signal.

BUT... in the last 2 days I've had to reset the TP-Link 5 times (unplug and plug back in). After that, everything works fine.

How can I diagnose what's going on? I'm usually connected through the access point, and I can access my Belkin device at it's static 192.168.1.2 address, but I can't get to the TP-Link at 192.168.1.1 when connected via the access point, and I can't connect directly to the signal from the TP-Link device at all even when standing right next to it.

Any ideas?

 

[thiggins]

Sounds like the TP-Link (or its power supply) is dead. Verify by shutting off the Belkin and seeing if you can connect. If you can't, it's a goner.

 

[tipstir]

What firmware did you use with your TP-LINK? The one from them or DD-WRT?
Have you updated the firmware on this model?
Do a factory reset on this router if you done the above.

 

[bej08]

Sounds like the TP-Link (or its power supply) is dead. Verify by shutting off the Belkin and seeing if you can connect. If you can't, it's a goner.

Would it be the power supply if it still works after unplugging and plugging back in? When I try to connect to the wireless signal from the TP-Link it's like it hangs at some point - I never get an IP address or anything from the router. I haven't tried a wired connection when it geeks like this though.

What firmware did you use with your TP-LINK? The one from them or DD-WRT?
Have you updated the firmware on this model?
Do a factory reset on this router if you done the above.

It still has factory firmware on it. Checked for an update and didn't find anything. I looked at DD-WRT, but they only have it for 1.1 and 1.4 models if I remember correctly, and my model is 1.9...

 

[thiggins]

Would it be the power supply if it still works after unplugging and plugging back in?

When power supplies start to die all sorts of odd things can happen. The supply might lose regulation or the voltage level drop after it warms up.

 

[bej08]

When power supplies start to die all sorts of odd things can happen. The supply might lose regulation or the voltage level drop after it warms up.

Shoot. I only got this stupid think 2 weeks ago too...

 

[tipstir]

AC/DC Multi-tester on the PSU plug-in lead can tell you if the PSU is working correctly.

But if you just got this model you take back for another one. v1.9 seems newer to my v1.7 was better. I might have the v1.9 here. Nope it's v1.7 go that this year. PSU is 9v-8a

TP-LINK engineer told me that this model can not handle to many WiFi devices. That would explain why mine gone duff on the LAN and WAN ports.

 

[bej08]

Thanks everyone. Got a replacement and so far 2 days without a reboot needed. Hopefully this one lasts more than a couple of weeks.

Now... to figure out why our iPhones are only getting 3 down/8 up when all of our computers are around 30/6... (On a 4S/5.1.1 and a 4S/6)

 

[tipstir]

Thanks everyone. Got a replacement and so far 2 days without a reboot needed. Hopefully this one lasts more than a couple of weeks.

Now... to figure out why our iPhones are only getting 3 down/8 up when all of our computers are around 30/6... (On a 4S/5.1.1 and a 4S/6)

What's the version of the hardware on the new one?

Also what did you set the 802.11 to in the Router. iPHone should get at-least 20 down. What mode or what does the iPhone you have to support 802.11 option.

 

[bej08]

What's the version of the hardware on the new one?

Also what did you set the 802.11 to in the Router. iPHone should get at-least 20 down. What mode or what does the iPhone you have to support 802.11 option.

This one's version 1.8

Router settings are 11bgn, auto 20/40MHz, auto channel (not a lot of networks around us), 300Mbps max, WMM enabled (tried disabling this, made no difference), and WPA2-PSK (AES) security.

 

[tipstir]

This one's version 1.8

Router settings are 11bgn, auto 20/40MHz, auto channel (not a lot of networks around us), 300Mbps max, WMM enabled (tried disabling this, made no difference), and WPA2-PSK (AES) security.

That's the correct way to set it up though. Some say 20MHz but only but I find it's better to use auto 20/40MHz. Let the WiFi Router or AP decide the best move. WMM you need that enabled. Leave it alone for now.. That router lets you set the MBPS to 300m most don't allow this. That's why this was my favorite WiFi Router and two more for Hand-wired AP Only. Works

Second to this one would be ESR600H gives you 100MHz more to 500MHz and 224MB more of RAM, dual band and extra ANT set to 5dbi.

On yours get TP-LINK 5dbi SMA ANT. Should look like this below;

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...0144382802949_579882948_6792174_1201483_n.jpg

 

[bej08]

On yours get TP-LINK 5dbi SMA ANT. Should look like this below;

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...0144382802949_579882948_6792174_1201483_n.jpg

Do those only improve signal strength? I'm confident the slower speeds on the iPhones isn't a result of signal strength, since it's slow whether I'm 2 feet from the router or at the edge of the signal range.

 

[tipstir]

Do those only improve signal strength? I'm confident the slower speeds on the iPhones isn't a result of signal strength, since it's slow whether I'm 2 feet from the router or at the edge of the signal range.

All those 3x ANT do is give you 5dBi each. 15dBi instead of 9dBi stock. Your 20dBm is the same 100mW. iPhone which model do you have? Sounds like you have the older ones. I've looked into this issue for you but they seem to have some sort of issue with WiFi signal. Android phones have the same issue well the prior ones. Newer ones don't.

 

[bej08]

iPhone which model do you have? Sounds like you have the older ones. I've looked into this issue for you but they seem to have some sort of issue with WiFi signal. Android phones have the same issue well the prior ones. Newer ones don't.

We have two iPhone 4S - one running iOS 6 and the other still on 5.1.1. Both show the same network speeds using speedtest.net app.

 

[tipstir]

We have two iPhone 4S - one running iOS 6 and the other still on 5.1.1. Both show the same network speeds using speedtest.net app.

So you're only getting 3 down you said? What are you getting form your ISP for downs. If your right on top of the WiFi Router you show the same results?

 

[bej08]

So you're only getting 3 down you said? What are you getting form your ISP for downs. If your right on top of the WiFi Router you show the same results?

Yep just around 3 down, 8 up on the phones. iMac and Windows laptop both are in the high 20s down and 5-6 down. Doesn't matter how close I am with the phones, but the laptop gets a little slower as it gets to the edge of range.

Comcast plan is 'up to' 20 down, 5 up with 'powerboost' for the first X amount o data (can't remember how much).

 

[bej08]

Additionally, I have a wired access point (an old Belkin router) if that makes a difference. Speeds are the same regardless of whether I connect to the Belkin AP or the TP-Link though.

Don't know if that makes any difference.

 

[tipstir]

Yes I use to be on that Comcast HS Plan. Some Smartphones are faster than others in WiFi. Do you have any friends or family that have the new iPhone 5 to test on your network.

For me desktop get max 65-67m down 7.80 up on the Comcast HS 50m down and 10m up with that plan there isn't any power boost. I am just getting these speeds because of my new fiber drop location all coax was replaced from the ancient RG59 to RG6 Ultra Coax GHz. I've been removing any extra splitters they have installed. Don't need it!

Best to install PCT RF Distribution Cable TV HDTV Splitter Signal Booster/Amplifier with Passive Return. Comcast has these might different brand but if the install this it through them there is a rental charge per month. These come in 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 etc. Very easy to install.

Nine output ports - eight for TV sets and one for a cable modem or MTA
Compact design for easy installation in many locations
Supports both analog and digital broadcast signals
Powder coated and weather sealed housing for superior corrosion protection
AC/DC power supply included

This is another option. Something like that above cost $49 to $120. High price one really do the same. Those are the same ones ComCast uses. Where I use to live I had 2x of them in different locations. They did keep the signal steady Eddy!

How old are your WiFi Routers, WiFi Access Points and your Cable Modem? If you rent that Cable Modem see if they have D3 Modem that will help your 20m get 25-38m with the powerboost. You can also buy the Modem online and save that extra $8 a month in rental charges.

Just have to find out what type of Cable Modem they're using in your area?

 

[bej08]

Thanks, Tipstir.

I checked again this morning while trying to get the baby to sleep, and all of a sudden both phones were showing 18 down/8 up. I have no idea what changed. Neither of them were shut off/restarted/restored, router was running all night, same devices were still connected in the DCHP Client list... I just have no idea.

The access point router is a Belking F6D230 in AP mode (DHCP turned off), and the TP-Link is new. We're renting the comcast modem, it's a DocSys 3 Cisco modem. We actually just got it a few months ago when we moved and they gave it to us to replace our old one.

In any case... not sure there's much I can do to fix the phone connection speed... or at least make it consistent.

 

[tipstir]

Thanks, Tipstir.

I checked again this morning while trying to get the baby to sleep, and all of a sudden both phones were showing 18 down/8 up. I have no idea what changed. Neither of them were shut off/restarted/restored, router was running all night, same devices were still connected in the DCHP Client list... I just have no idea.

The access point router is a Belking F6D230 in AP mode (DHCP turned off), and the TP-Link is new. We're renting the comcast modem, it's a DocSys 3 Cisco modem. We actually just got it a few months ago when we moved and they gave it to us to replace our old one.

In any case... not sure there's much I can do to fix the phone connection speed... or at least make it consistent.

Once a month you should power cycle down the WiFi gear and your Cable Modem. Smart Phones too So they can clear out the RAM and other things. Cable Modem should get too sent a hit (the term Comcast and most ISP use to reset the modem. Other-way it to use a pin on the reset hole. But best to have them on the phone when you do that. So they can send a hit to the modem again.

18m down is good enough for these Smartphones.